tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40245564179623984762024-03-11T11:24:23.595+08:00The Measuring TapeTips and tutorials on sewing and pattern drafting.Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.comBlogger77125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-30388443423561007572021-11-09T17:34:00.000+08:002021-11-09T17:34:13.105+08:00East meets West - A Corset Story<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the old days, corsets were also worn under traditional kebayas which were made from lacy fabric or thin cotton voile trimmed with delicate cut-work embroidery. The corset (as a body shaping undergarment) was meant to be visible through the thin fabric. Nowadays, women more commonly will wear a nice bra or a camisole under. The sarong (skirt) itself is typically made from cotton or silk fabric printed with traditional batik.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMtKwA1IzZ0uUIHcwHSS34joQs-0s1g5LVpJDCSbxsPY-sMDcgPTGjfRWq4AlzJ4ZncKnWx5mUemgSZtV6shTHHTerJQiek2Oz_STUHasYH2_B-UewwoWwRAkfjxhP6qDEzDUi-N59jn8m/s2048/B3760A8A-4968-4719-A503-C23922972E5F.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMtKwA1IzZ0uUIHcwHSS34joQs-0s1g5LVpJDCSbxsPY-sMDcgPTGjfRWq4AlzJ4ZncKnWx5mUemgSZtV6shTHHTerJQiek2Oz_STUHasYH2_B-UewwoWwRAkfjxhP6qDEzDUi-N59jn8m/s320/B3760A8A-4968-4719-A503-C23922972E5F.jpeg" /></a></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Recently, I had finished making a kebaya and sarong sample set to test a sewing pattern I had designed for my Etsy store. While working on finishing the pattern instructions, I got to thinking that one could use traditional batik for the corset itself. Whereupon I got side-tracked from the pattern-making work (as one does) and began cutting up the remnant batik cloth I had used for the sarong to piece together a corset.</p>It was so satisfying.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFAUOu2LuNiJHt_56NxWhG8Q61FM5vNUX6AusbmPWOosumkW30BbWt9zVX4P2i9Qo9-ZwtBEjBIMShzv3On4EUpMSKBj8nHDJgBBVXxqSmuJGIrbCt9WLUHyd6FwYVR0kkM3VC36UnJDZL/s2048/EA9D3516-4E10-463B-BFE1-282EA6BE1247.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1803" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFAUOu2LuNiJHt_56NxWhG8Q61FM5vNUX6AusbmPWOosumkW30BbWt9zVX4P2i9Qo9-ZwtBEjBIMShzv3On4EUpMSKBj8nHDJgBBVXxqSmuJGIrbCt9WLUHyd6FwYVR0kkM3VC36UnJDZL/s320/EA9D3516-4E10-463B-BFE1-282EA6BE1247.jpeg" /></a></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Traditional sarong batik has a panel design meant to be pleated and tucked into the centre front waist. That panel design looks great when placed on the centre front piece of the corset as well. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1llUX_BstGjybQGFNT1LZVhF8S9bq3Hd8s6borx6qtAbmoICyChHn4U89E1twhCWxdWNfGHWrELlJwX3IUXa7zHh997rR7ehoLLJU6bmiderS71FXjyG7rG-R9faAW2LSB-LqktHaHLGh/s2048/IMG_E2354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1089" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1llUX_BstGjybQGFNT1LZVhF8S9bq3Hd8s6borx6qtAbmoICyChHn4U89E1twhCWxdWNfGHWrELlJwX3IUXa7zHh997rR7ehoLLJU6bmiderS71FXjyG7rG-R9faAW2LSB-LqktHaHLGh/s320/IMG_E2354.JPG" width="170" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>I'd say it would work well on the back lacing panels and / or back modesty panel. For this particular sample, I used the border design on the back lacing panel, which also worked out marvellously!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnNg0RgmayRXfLDYSfrBWzIewIUXcLdy8MvD2AotNWAe84I3c3rU5GQSrV5axL48LD4Kb9l-3ycwXw71-cpDTnuLW_ahXc1Sy-cJpsLpgqlRTQFjs191cO253rHTJrC_jpnHdic8CSVTG/s2048/9CC66426-848C-487D-9156-0AAE357AA4B5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1728" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnNg0RgmayRXfLDYSfrBWzIewIUXcLdy8MvD2AotNWAe84I3c3rU5GQSrV5axL48LD4Kb9l-3ycwXw71-cpDTnuLW_ahXc1Sy-cJpsLpgqlRTQFjs191cO253rHTJrC_jpnHdic8CSVTG/s320/9CC66426-848C-487D-9156-0AAE357AA4B5.jpeg" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>Because I was experimenting with remnant cloth, this corset turned out pretty tiny. The waist is 21" (will fit up to 24" waist). This particular piece is available <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1057893203/sample-sale-batik-underbust-corset?ref=shop_home_active_1&frs=1" target="_blank">as a sample sale</a> but made-to-order is also possible.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVcs1n7UcvaV7DNKrjp9Q7IyBTuxbUVGsb-06RK7QSCHybnRBaG4E8_6eenyQl-alTLIPo0OEWjDyoVn7KOnwPplEY7rbtTpFIl5PW4e1z8nKpDDdA9Q-JD5NSyNSQ7HHVcrk-16eA0hK/s1150/corset+dimensions.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1150" data-original-width="1014" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYVcs1n7UcvaV7DNKrjp9Q7IyBTuxbUVGsb-06RK7QSCHybnRBaG4E8_6eenyQl-alTLIPo0OEWjDyoVn7KOnwPplEY7rbtTpFIl5PW4e1z8nKpDDdA9Q-JD5NSyNSQ7HHVcrk-16eA0hK/s320/corset+dimensions.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Alternative batik fabric will be made available soon. Or you can send me a message to begin a discussion. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXcGrpGaOpSBne3KVIrE1o7Q-Qc6EXQNQ5LawejbOSJvPfVYyqefMn1OWKbGv0au3d5GVo_KXE6a7-GR9tvCbflTWNHHOWaU0RrpCVYf6kj3cZ86MmJy-N6TC53AV5ri6v-4urqy83Fc_J/s2048/5982BE3F-7C87-4B4A-AA8D-C93F4F5B0391.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1699" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXcGrpGaOpSBne3KVIrE1o7Q-Qc6EXQNQ5LawejbOSJvPfVYyqefMn1OWKbGv0au3d5GVo_KXE6a7-GR9tvCbflTWNHHOWaU0RrpCVYf6kj3cZ86MmJy-N6TC53AV5ri6v-4urqy83Fc_J/s320/5982BE3F-7C87-4B4A-AA8D-C93F4F5B0391.jpeg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Hope everyone is emerging from collective hibernation in good spirit! <p></p></div></div>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-1924564746971193582021-07-27T22:19:00.003+08:002021-07-28T12:41:14.394+08:00Drafting a Flat Collar (Or how to add a flat collar to the Versatile Blouse Pattern) <p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjnxJfEXI6HKrejO-ZRGQep3XRBiR26HnXqmoEdhdt54GvAuYAG-nebKIhF6IQIvQSqsDs2WQeQ41GrP2BVffaj4023D834Nudqin7tWJhCsBGkx668RADnsx7vDhxA4Uv8IkXkuUqW7l3/s2048/Versatile+blouse_flat+collar.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1307" data-original-width="2048" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjnxJfEXI6HKrejO-ZRGQep3XRBiR26HnXqmoEdhdt54GvAuYAG-nebKIhF6IQIvQSqsDs2WQeQ41GrP2BVffaj4023D834Nudqin7tWJhCsBGkx668RADnsx7vDhxA4Uv8IkXkuUqW7l3/w400-h255/Versatile+blouse_flat+collar.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;">In my <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2021/05/a-versatile-blouse-pattern-part-2.html" target="_blank">last post</a>, I showed how you might modify the <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/05/new-old-pattern-versatile-blouse.html" target="_blank">Versatile Blouse pattern</a> by reshaping the neckline, or adding a collar and/or sleeves.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;">Other than the Band Collar that I showed previously, the next easiest collar to draft is the Flat Collar, sometimes called a Peter Pan Collar. This type of collar lies flat against the shoulder line and the centre back; there is no rise at the back of the neck like on a regular shirt collar. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir93qRlKUAtKH9eoms-Ppk69wP0NEHZfgTLR1l9MsYjOR0cgOlx4DhAlY3Tdh1m246CZ2aTif0zxp94Lr6_6KLuyG4Dv3E-0lFslcLvH02Uye5wGN7Tvpt3asExXC392uJ6JTCUbCqB8wV/s3382/flat+collar+back_no+rise.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="3382" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir93qRlKUAtKH9eoms-Ppk69wP0NEHZfgTLR1l9MsYjOR0cgOlx4DhAlY3Tdh1m246CZ2aTif0zxp94Lr6_6KLuyG4Dv3E-0lFslcLvH02Uye5wGN7Tvpt3asExXC392uJ6JTCUbCqB8wV/w640-h176/flat+collar+back_no+rise.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Flat Collar Back</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNlovbxt64oysQi6VrMWuj6_LJvsTGaaKhlaYihOulU9blDGuy-7EAEUIit3qPlPx289WqABSDEwG4XdXr1VfvRmJfQ4kBb5f8CXjug11eeyCAugFNqUKu1zaUGJLKJLgaG6onuJM5VlAw/s2889/shirt+collar+back_rise.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="2889" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNlovbxt64oysQi6VrMWuj6_LJvsTGaaKhlaYihOulU9blDGuy-7EAEUIit3qPlPx289WqABSDEwG4XdXr1VfvRmJfQ4kBb5f8CXjug11eeyCAugFNqUKu1zaUGJLKJLgaG6onuJM5VlAw/w640-h170/shirt+collar+back_rise.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">Shirt Collar Back</div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;">The flat collar itself is also highly versatile in that you can cut it into nearly any shape.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIJpVbnQXLqdKFiaZdHDBPuwWo8GsBf8CPdrIwPnMWQP_-GAxlo6UEUNK4rrtfXIFIYEcdVdSX4yazAyAf67cwloBNjph9YuHzd3Oc8HTM4p4C0iVR4-XJ0BeIn6wRdcIm1SQMct7gjJS/s2048/types+of+flat+collars.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1253" data-original-width="2048" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiIJpVbnQXLqdKFiaZdHDBPuwWo8GsBf8CPdrIwPnMWQP_-GAxlo6UEUNK4rrtfXIFIYEcdVdSX4yazAyAf67cwloBNjph9YuHzd3Oc8HTM4p4C0iVR4-XJ0BeIn6wRdcIm1SQMct7gjJS/w400-h245/types+of+flat+collars.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;">This tutorial uses the Versatile Blouse pattern as a base but it can be applied to any other blouse pattern with a flat neckline. Some other modifications or adaptations may be necessary but the basic steps should remain the same.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;"><b>How to draft a Flat Collar:</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">1. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Place the FRONT blouse
pattern on a piece of <a href="https://amzn.to/3rGNJD1" target="_blank">drafting paper</a> or standard <a href="https://amzn.to/3i5jfax" target="_blank">A3-size paper</a> is more than adequate).</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">2. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Trace around the neckline,
shoulder and centre front (CF) of your blouse pattern.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblwB7I2fEjIqWOIm615Hw5qzPBfjMgJxG23AJwhT5KetreK1xFOpjslvDQFYJvWaV91g-V7xT54SLjloAJ2SXPBvgh6jSfAV37KujWE_IeciEmEBZrL1SQXC_HnCeUxJy6uldBhRobHrQ/s894/flat+collar+1_2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="829" data-original-width="894" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblwB7I2fEjIqWOIm615Hw5qzPBfjMgJxG23AJwhT5KetreK1xFOpjslvDQFYJvWaV91g-V7xT54SLjloAJ2SXPBvgh6jSfAV37KujWE_IeciEmEBZrL1SQXC_HnCeUxJy6uldBhRobHrQ/s320/flat+collar+1_2.png" width="320" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">3. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; text-indent: 0cm;">On the tracing, remove the
seam allowance(SA) at the shoulder. If there is SA on the CF, remove it as
well.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBNiRLhr469sHMlgT2bctYESjSiN52WffkRj9xFOcGvLhbOKnbd0tcWgoFhQMnUbGHIypBuDirs2NuKXljH3J6cIodm3HQBkXVfJ4wdcwdUTibBOEnVndOrtZ89Gnw8EUp12Z7Vfqc_mE/s874/flat+collar+3.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="504" data-original-width="874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBNiRLhr469sHMlgT2bctYESjSiN52WffkRj9xFOcGvLhbOKnbd0tcWgoFhQMnUbGHIypBuDirs2NuKXljH3J6cIodm3HQBkXVfJ4wdcwdUTibBOEnVndOrtZ89Gnw8EUp12Z7Vfqc_mE/s320/flat+collar+3.png" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">4. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; text-indent: 0cm;">Take the BACK blouse
pattern. Fold down the SA on the shoulder.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZdwR-C1qevYtQJdgoBy-7yMB5QAqu1XZuGp3dUqR0gQIO6MKMt0gI679KYFNN4cQpLiZBe3KXhcWMkdZ7gLjILlBtb0vcrRwln8yPMxPnsfTDD6UMPzmw-qxbJJFFcXUtWW0KBSZ7Itg/s449/flat+collar+4.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="440" data-original-width="449" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZdwR-C1qevYtQJdgoBy-7yMB5QAqu1XZuGp3dUqR0gQIO6MKMt0gI679KYFNN4cQpLiZBe3KXhcWMkdZ7gLjILlBtb0vcrRwln8yPMxPnsfTDD6UMPzmw-qxbJJFFcXUtWW0KBSZ7Itg/w200-h196/flat+collar+4.png" width="200" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></span>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">5. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Align the shoulder of the
BACK pattern to the shoulder of the FRONT tracing.</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">6. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Trace around the back
neckline and centre back (CB).<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbXpi9bR1W-KuFP1eoC677DpPJc1a2GpPmfLoN3eFjKDimpa6DjFeVzGGuo_qD9hdrOkCAW5ERQBL6-UqTdhzoTee3kBju_JiaUXXtSrA3t9Gnqw_iJ0F-MH-2sJ6nU2E0ZHQ0V1yKjn5/s1077/flat+collar+5_6.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1058" data-original-width="1077" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZbXpi9bR1W-KuFP1eoC677DpPJc1a2GpPmfLoN3eFjKDimpa6DjFeVzGGuo_qD9hdrOkCAW5ERQBL6-UqTdhzoTee3kBju_JiaUXXtSrA3t9Gnqw_iJ0F-MH-2sJ6nU2E0ZHQ0V1yKjn5/s320/flat+collar+5_6.png" width="320" /></a></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">7. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">If there is SA on the CB,
remove it on the tracing.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0UQREF9_8J29NHYNLs6vdFM1SZF9SBtz8RWpj_sqUXA-6tZaW5RytduDWHH2ggBJBBasqnMCTHQxV-mp2D0Vxg6XCm6SH39rSecNHY4xUbG0AwVzLCwqxbqxqxoDRwvJFJpk3ppWTYAK/s1015/flat+collar+7.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="871" data-original-width="1015" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0UQREF9_8J29NHYNLs6vdFM1SZF9SBtz8RWpj_sqUXA-6tZaW5RytduDWHH2ggBJBBasqnMCTHQxV-mp2D0Vxg6XCm6SH39rSecNHY4xUbG0AwVzLCwqxbqxqxoDRwvJFJpk3ppWTYAK/s320/flat+collar+7.png" width="320" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">8. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">Take note of the width of
the original SA on the neckline. For eg. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">¼</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">”. You will retain this SA that is already on
the tracing.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeCkNGFCike1f58mF50cc05Lk6rynWfzJD1Jm4Zo5RH-HTtJM3p1jA-UHIyYp5a4whcHu-tXf38ino3EMBbrFsK2ELw86mZcs4BcgiDu40bR5UZU_R1Z0iErGtCgN65qaf144VAYXsFRzt/s1003/flat+collar+8.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="795" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeCkNGFCike1f58mF50cc05Lk6rynWfzJD1Jm4Zo5RH-HTtJM3p1jA-UHIyYp5a4whcHu-tXf38ino3EMBbrFsK2ELw86mZcs4BcgiDu40bR5UZU_R1Z0iErGtCgN65qaf144VAYXsFRzt/s320/flat+collar+8.png" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">9. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Mark the desired width of the collar on the CF
and CB. For eg. 2”</span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">10. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Mark the desired width of the collar at the
shoulder. For eg. 1</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;">½</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">”<o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoP4kbqIjXsK4cc219fOrb1gzkZk7yFMzNwAYCEtIIN_q6Jb0fOC2ElX7hUy5Nbw4fHbKne6rh2ShefDdLVOVWq78K0K-5A2vfyR46E-KSbXpizJvEUp0D2MkmYeesK5dI_LR1eSouxjkt/s1003/flat+collar+9_10.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="911" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoP4kbqIjXsK4cc219fOrb1gzkZk7yFMzNwAYCEtIIN_q6Jb0fOC2ElX7hUy5Nbw4fHbKne6rh2ShefDdLVOVWq78K0K-5A2vfyR46E-KSbXpizJvEUp0D2MkmYeesK5dI_LR1eSouxjkt/s320/flat+collar+9_10.png" /></a></div><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">11. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">Mark your desired collar spread. That is, mark
how wide apart you’d like the tips of each half of the collar to be from each
other. For eg. 2” total spread => 1” each side.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">12. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">Do the same for the back of the collar.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-RDPu1Sl8k_gyRFC-HAidi-Am9YuHIGBxbtzRfBF0QyT9mwUogZJFg4fafVN9nnO6YadBiLuQ9bi1QXEaw32q7QNA_wpuM7bJzNPISzRqfs8tarDN0Ekmd2iCdOnPVESN6OdfHuLoFubL/s1003/flat+collar+11_12.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="977" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-RDPu1Sl8k_gyRFC-HAidi-Am9YuHIGBxbtzRfBF0QyT9mwUogZJFg4fafVN9nnO6YadBiLuQ9bi1QXEaw32q7QNA_wpuM7bJzNPISzRqfs8tarDN0Ekmd2iCdOnPVESN6OdfHuLoFubL/s320/flat+collar+11_12.png" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">13. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Next, draw a smooth curve to connect all the
marked points.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqY6-x2SalsbYLWxV6psqLB4rKilugMNos4VbZ5iOAoh8yisSuSo5L_Zp3vTPGgSI8z6-BwY-yNMFv3VSXIJBgsvskfE5FDQuWb0Me5GLmIVanHzjaS94Z455wZzvJuB3jt-OY4FLE2Sm-/s1003/flat+collar+13.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1003" data-original-width="750" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqY6-x2SalsbYLWxV6psqLB4rKilugMNos4VbZ5iOAoh8yisSuSo5L_Zp3vTPGgSI8z6-BwY-yNMFv3VSXIJBgsvskfE5FDQuWb0Me5GLmIVanHzjaS94Z455wZzvJuB3jt-OY4FLE2Sm-/s320/flat+collar+13.png" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">14. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">Add your desired SA to the curve. Eg. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; text-indent: 0cm;">¼</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHUJsw85swthqK_16XQMnOSx5eIVba9mLE8uW2djQJoG-NOyBDkA3tJWrQIv401ikc3emOPVhp8dd2WVUeBv5b0AaqiLAQ28qgsPaK84cmSlB98X3BsTkWLODgPLiwOLQpnLsZuHwm9sP/s858/flat+collar+14.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="850" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHUJsw85swthqK_16XQMnOSx5eIVba9mLE8uW2djQJoG-NOyBDkA3tJWrQIv401ikc3emOPVhp8dd2WVUeBv5b0AaqiLAQ28qgsPaK84cmSlB98X3BsTkWLODgPLiwOLQpnLsZuHwm9sP/s320/flat+collar+14.png" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">15. </span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; text-indent: 0cm;">If you prefer a rounded tip, then just draw
that in.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ19H6TGMeydeUz81YPBJBJk_TmO_jPNQ1DedJi7epPx0arcnK8OZAPcI_GFQgNzOvJ-JZRCS-sG3qJCgkrBOmKFYHMbE_rqOTvkE4aswXROGKf1Oe8rXoeUDX4O718RdZvpETdFfX2WKb/s858/flat+collar+15.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="698" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ19H6TGMeydeUz81YPBJBJk_TmO_jPNQ1DedJi7epPx0arcnK8OZAPcI_GFQgNzOvJ-JZRCS-sG3qJCgkrBOmKFYHMbE_rqOTvkE4aswXROGKf1Oe8rXoeUDX4O718RdZvpETdFfX2WKb/s320/flat+collar+15.png" /></a></span></span></div><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">Your flat collar draft is done. You will need to
cut out 4 pieces (2 symmetrical pairs) to complete making the collar. You might need an
additional 2 pieces of interfacing.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cPhlr3-ctIj186Xeq0ccNCsbfvo7G9m5VrECEZlCP9n0eqh3z43FKpd93PxZ1l6q_YApfrK7qkcayMO3oKNMO-fHbaEEGgWZohVzfMaJecdGQ4kcbSUqG16rhwazvED9eyjAbWb-YDFd/s2048/Versatile+blouse_flat+collar.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1307" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cPhlr3-ctIj186Xeq0ccNCsbfvo7G9m5VrECEZlCP9n0eqh3z43FKpd93PxZ1l6q_YApfrK7qkcayMO3oKNMO-fHbaEEGgWZohVzfMaJecdGQ4kcbSUqG16rhwazvED9eyjAbWb-YDFd/s320/Versatile+blouse_flat+collar.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Try out different flat collar designs, and in contrasting fabric as well. Lengthening the shoulder line to accommodate broader collar widths is another option. As I've said before, the choice is nearly endless!<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/787966340/a-versatile-blouse-sleeveless-cut-in?ref=shop_home_active_4" target="_blank">Get your Versatile Blouse Pattern here.</a><br /><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;"><br /></span><p></p><script data-coffee-color="#FFDD00" data-color="#ffc29e" data-emoji="☕" data-font-color="#000000" data-font="Inter" data-name="bmc-button" data-outline-color="#000000" data-slug="daljeet" data-text="Buy me a coffee" src="https://cdnjs.buymeacoffee.com/1.0.0/button.prod.min.js" type="text/javascript"></script>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-46952269490400360972021-05-05T18:01:00.002+08:002021-05-05T20:38:54.255+08:00A Versatile Blouse pattern (part 2)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: 12pt;">Previously, I talked about the <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/05/new-old-pattern-versatile-blouse.html" target="_blank">adaptability of the Versatile Blouse</a> pattern because of its simple lines and basic cut. The quickest way to change up the pattern is to modify the neckline, either by cutting a new shape (eg, a V-neck) or by adding a collar.</span></div></span></span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 17.12px; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">A) Here is the blouse with a detached key-hole type neckline. To simplify things even further, just finish it with a binding. Pull the look together by binding the bottom edge (instead of hemming) as well.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHuqBVWvEmpiymuSgJc-JJnNEQGUGzwjjd-ZAhPsuCBLiLb7dnQ4Mu79VzrocoiMrpsnfypYm0NKlbdVyLfq265QDcLfAKST6Tii4JrQuys1_G8CbTH743o2n4BP5KCgSwQY8ErhQy4PdB/s2048/IMG_0589+%25282%2529.JPG" style="font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1934" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHuqBVWvEmpiymuSgJc-JJnNEQGUGzwjjd-ZAhPsuCBLiLb7dnQ4Mu79VzrocoiMrpsnfypYm0NKlbdVyLfq265QDcLfAKST6Tii4JrQuys1_G8CbTH743o2n4BP5KCgSwQY8ErhQy4PdB/s320/IMG_0589+%25282%2529.JPG" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGyUdgJRYaBkM_PZJ9GL3uoaofGr6xFsDXPIQTvD2aNA5T6o-_jwICNdVvBfwsykiM8-njM6ncPtoTqboX50Qf923Clzs-AJWJfIvA_SLeG2z61JIj2V9emiqKZa6F9PiRI7a-Elg1Nsu/s2048/IMG_0588+%25282%2529.JPG" style="font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1066" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGyUdgJRYaBkM_PZJ9GL3uoaofGr6xFsDXPIQTvD2aNA5T6o-_jwICNdVvBfwsykiM8-njM6ncPtoTqboX50Qf923Clzs-AJWJfIvA_SLeG2z61JIj2V9emiqKZa6F9PiRI7a-Elg1Nsu/s320/IMG_0588+%25282%2529.JPG" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;">B) Adding a collar is slightly more complicated, but the easiest one to make is a band collar. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTwfCpgC_K9puOLXj3f8hr7BBrG4RVCz_Vfyg6fbfOUcpf9BxKmdP1cB8JWFr7V5aEhAUZg2wUpnmZALj6RxUJuhgdV3bP48yN0uKfuSqxiTOwxezWNGv1YIiPH1NyfsMU_gBFdP3pQpu/s2048/IMG_0585+%25282%2529.JPG" style="font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2040" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTwfCpgC_K9puOLXj3f8hr7BBrG4RVCz_Vfyg6fbfOUcpf9BxKmdP1cB8JWFr7V5aEhAUZg2wUpnmZALj6RxUJuhgdV3bP48yN0uKfuSqxiTOwxezWNGv1YIiPH1NyfsMU_gBFdP3pQpu/s320/IMG_0585+%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMInb7949j5Cqj9ykmM_fDqW0-Q7T4BtgNE9AqlE1_5paYC2BvUUGnDBQVayv6T-PSCSWaypZgKfAm2JyAxe_AlYA0Xo_0jYck54j8ATlC-q8Rs460Td6Kg-aMhchfr1t_EPe6HYOmjDbY/s2048/IMG_0587+%25282%2529.JPG" style="font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1566" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMInb7949j5Cqj9ykmM_fDqW0-Q7T4BtgNE9AqlE1_5paYC2BvUUGnDBQVayv6T-PSCSWaypZgKfAm2JyAxe_AlYA0Xo_0jYck54j8ATlC-q8Rs460Td6Kg-aMhchfr1t_EPe6HYOmjDbY/s320/IMG_0587+%25282%2529.JPG" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;">You can just cut a straight strip of fabric (A). The band will gape away from your neck, as shown in the pictures above. For a closer fit, cut strips that curve slightly (B), and the band will hug your neck more snugly.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><br /></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYJGiWBUF5jwdE9cwuRRrX7ENzWEhH5KohkHyr6uDvvTXuWFBl6HuQQAGSUJg9vb7yw9HJUQ_DbUOs-sF4pOXR2kczsMG4qKQZRp3UARTfttKTSDC9fRPMcA86Vbxd4hoa0-xE1uN9J9_/s874/band+collar+sketch.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="355" data-original-width="874" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaYJGiWBUF5jwdE9cwuRRrX7ENzWEhH5KohkHyr6uDvvTXuWFBl6HuQQAGSUJg9vb7yw9HJUQ_DbUOs-sF4pOXR2kczsMG4qKQZRp3UARTfttKTSDC9fRPMcA86Vbxd4hoa0-xE1uN9J9_/w640-h260/band+collar+sketch.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><span style="text-indent: 0cm;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="text-indent: 0cm;">C) The pattern also can be adapted into a dress by just extending the length of the pattern from the waist.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorveintFI_jysghRX4Ht85fBoSCN7sBsNbA-tB1c5DbV5dC2O2eBSq8lfSIPxUjDyvd2OBmc_CiDak4jjfQxebTIrAGu_vGJARXrxRECrpcBRzo8qTRHbab6TF8BwOrfirLfjLauLBH1O/s2048/IMG_0591+%25282%2529.JPG" style="font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1427" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorveintFI_jysghRX4Ht85fBoSCN7sBsNbA-tB1c5DbV5dC2O2eBSq8lfSIPxUjDyvd2OBmc_CiDak4jjfQxebTIrAGu_vGJARXrxRECrpcBRzo8qTRHbab6TF8BwOrfirLfjLauLBH1O/s320/IMG_0591+%25282%2529.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">In the example above, the original round neckline has been redrafted into a boat neck, and I also added short capped sleeves. The style I was going for was a mod dress. To add sleeves, extend the shoulder line of the pattern to about 4" - 4.5" (or measure yours) and draw a suitable armscye. Or just omit the sleeves and make a tank dress. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQ9Qo1xQtHGGHQDp3RBSEbc_dPO6B2FgkPbqFJGm3aUwdbWCwElsIYg44a4GTh9h5JeMaSyyql8z3-g4qIDr-HGZYrf8sEWJphSmlzjF17fBJO9fhHICDX2uRLkZcp4PLk_ovrA6xuEUO/s2048/IMG_0593+%25282%2529.JPG" style="font-size: 16px; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivQ9Qo1xQtHGGHQDp3RBSEbc_dPO6B2FgkPbqFJGm3aUwdbWCwElsIYg44a4GTh9h5JeMaSyyql8z3-g4qIDr-HGZYrf8sEWJphSmlzjF17fBJO9fhHICDX2uRLkZcp4PLk_ovrA6xuEUO/s320/IMG_0593+%25282%2529.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The possibilities are limited only by one's imagination. </div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;">In an upcoming post, I describe in detail how to add a flat collar to this pattern, but the method will work for any blouse pattern with a flat neckline.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/787966340/a-versatile-blouse-sleeveless-cut-in?ref=shop_home_active_3" target="_blank">The Versatile Blouse is available here.</a></p>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-30162166422825477522021-02-22T23:39:00.003+08:002021-02-23T15:13:50.488+08:00Surgical Tool in My Sewing Kit!This post was originally published in Dec 2016. I've updated it with a, hopefully, clearer and more comprehensive video. It shows you how I use this little tool to turn the corners of a collar for a shirt dress that I made for my daughter to wear for the Lunar New Year (it amazes me that she's at that stage -and age- where she's becoming interested in more mature styles. Also relieved and glad she still wants her mummy to make clothes for her!)<div><br /></div><div>So about this handy little tool in my sewing box...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZO6YLrqo0B_QmXsZXgrjKx1d-ier6vVvLxBgrI_Pe5mtM8HpV1DadI9P3gBPFtxmnVtvbewdJmRhoDNJbL8hJkMMxe4G1nh4pm_TEHf2SWVFeAb7OL9PKjLY5ZFCUqhq7uDOneUCmjIuR/s1600/medical+clamp.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZO6YLrqo0B_QmXsZXgrjKx1d-ier6vVvLxBgrI_Pe5mtM8HpV1DadI9P3gBPFtxmnVtvbewdJmRhoDNJbL8hJkMMxe4G1nh4pm_TEHf2SWVFeAb7OL9PKjLY5ZFCUqhq7uDOneUCmjIuR/s320/medical+clamp.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
It's a haemostat.<br />
<br />
Yup, I have surgical tools in my sewing room.<br />
<br />
This little gadget is just great for turning collar points.<br />
And it's really good for clamping 2 pieces of cloth together when you need both hands to work on something else.<br />
It is by far my favourite 'non-sewing' sewing tool!<br />
<br />
Here's a video I made of this little guy in action:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="325" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NYusIKPBAG4" width="481" youtube-src-id="NYusIKPBAG4"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />
You can get one of these tools from any medical supply store or <a href="https://amzn.to/3dB89bF" target="_blank">amazon</a> for that matter.<br />
This one was given to me by my father, who found it at a second-hand kiosk set up by the road side in Singapore (all you old-timers from Singapore will know <a href="https://remembersingapore.org/sungei-thieves-market/" target="_blank">Sungei Road</a> and all it stood for).<br />
And it cost him all of $2! </div><div><br /></div><div>My lovely father found more for me after I told him how well they worked out.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKe3d6rtfOqY0xY_aJTgm3ZsTD-euTEU433nXhhPQWgb8jjClyYmRljcJzQMWHHMftCpcz1jskg4xlj40Xm-3rkTAlo9yoxTKOJtM3sWO_S0mG84V0D9fq32i7VJULrw7JpMYBwUkSSK7N/s1280/haemostat+examples.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKe3d6rtfOqY0xY_aJTgm3ZsTD-euTEU433nXhhPQWgb8jjClyYmRljcJzQMWHHMftCpcz1jskg4xlj40Xm-3rkTAlo9yoxTKOJtM3sWO_S0mG84V0D9fq32i7VJULrw7JpMYBwUkSSK7N/s320/haemostat+examples.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br />For turning collar points, I prefer the curved nose rather than straight, although the straight will work quite well. Just make sure it is as pointy as you can find them.<br /><br /></div><div>If you have another favourite non-sewing sewing tool, let me know about it in the comments.</div><div><br /></div><div>Where to buy:<br /><a href="https://amzn.to/3kc7Rcp" target="_blank">Curved tipped haemostat</a></div><div><a href="https://amzn.to/3unRzlC" target="_blank">Straight-tipped haemostat</a> (longer ones; great for turning broad loops and pushing corners)</div><div><a href="https://amzn.to/3dB89bF" target="_blank">A set of curved and straight-topped</a><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/3qKbPM3" target="_blank">A 6-piece variety set</a><br />
<br /></div><div><br /></div>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-53717145256435388512021-02-08T00:00:00.012+08:002021-02-08T00:00:01.013+08:00Wraparound Trousers - a video tutorial<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkrDIO-Z1dfAnKtM5OANzyydSE-nxRUgaAu2nfVHpUu-rZ4wOYU_1q2AmxuONnBTJU5ZsyQWXQS8xE5xgSs0GQBm7t7nnsyybYNaywmhPSUc0YirL99j9QPixjqlwsbNYBEzMn_0XzpvR/s1280/video+thumbnail.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFkrDIO-Z1dfAnKtM5OANzyydSE-nxRUgaAu2nfVHpUu-rZ4wOYU_1q2AmxuONnBTJU5ZsyQWXQS8xE5xgSs0GQBm7t7nnsyybYNaywmhPSUc0YirL99j9QPixjqlwsbNYBEzMn_0XzpvR/s320/video+thumbnail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2021/02/wraparound-trousers-preamble.html" target="_blank">Read the inspiration</a> behind the tutorial, with suggestions for variations.</p><p>The tutorial is in 2 parts for your convenience:</p><p>Part 1 includes Materials, Measuring & Drafting.</p><p>Part 2 is exclusively on sewing the pattern and finishing (Construction), with added steps on making your own bias binding to match.</p><p>Recommendations:</p><p>1. Use medium or medium-heavy weight fabric.</p><p>2. If your waist-to-hip ratio is high:</p><p>-add another 2" to your waist measurement</p><p>-then make 2 darts to each side instead of the single one (per side) shown.</p><p>3. Watch the videos at least once through before starting to make.</p><p>Bon Chance!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="253" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-QjF4NbBMLQ" width="481" youtube-src-id="-QjF4NbBMLQ"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_yRQv8dnrGs" width="484" youtube-src-id="_yRQv8dnrGs"></iframe></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I chose to have these videos hosted on YouTube, which means I now have a YouTube channel. I have mixed feelings about it but it does seem to be the most convenient platform, all things considered. So if you don't mind, I'm going to parrot the words of every YouTuber, "please 'like' and subscribe"!</p><p><a href="https://mailchi.mp/e6af15301ee5/2i4tbwr7uq" target="_blank">Btw, a PDF version of this tutorial is also available.</a></p><p><br /></p>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com4Kuala Lumpur, Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia3.139003 101.686855-25.170597810223892 66.5314338025856 31.44860381022389 136.84227619741438tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-21431707173819358432021-02-04T21:35:00.001+08:002021-02-08T08:21:49.744+08:00Wraparound Trousers - preamble<p> I love a good bargain. I especially enjoy rummaging through the discount table set up near the front entrance of a department store or at the public foyer of a shopping mall. Thirty years ago, I was engaged in such an activity when I came across a substantial piece of fabric that looked like it had a trouser crotch. Despite my love of puzzles, I could not figure it out. My bemused expression must have signaled the attention of the sales lady, who promptly, and gleefully, appeared at my side. She must have witnessed many similar expressions throughout her shift.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5a_R9bxU4IyCC6frpEy0MAyfUQZQCUoWx3fCXzJHnYCXIpAqovNqJZvoPYrEwskvyFit_9lCxOWwnG0149LVRPcNk0JAth1jmH9xUn-31EvC0h2TvnAJLjB5Gu_Gt5JqDsWXn5KFb31TQ/s2048/IMG_0368.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5a_R9bxU4IyCC6frpEy0MAyfUQZQCUoWx3fCXzJHnYCXIpAqovNqJZvoPYrEwskvyFit_9lCxOWwnG0149LVRPcNk0JAth1jmH9xUn-31EvC0h2TvnAJLjB5Gu_Gt5JqDsWXn5KFb31TQ/w240-h320/IMG_0368.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><br /></p><p>She showed me how to put it on and I was delighted by the ingenuity of the pattern. I bought it and wore it for many many many years in spite of its bright red colour (only colour left in the bin). At some point, I decided to replicate it in a more muted hue, which I also wore for many many many years. I no longer have either pair and cannot remember how I lost them both, bearing in mind that I have moved dwellings a total of 6 times and have experienced various fluctuations of weight and girth since then.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik0_9JKVXbdNuQ2LSUgs9V5YWFjVnkIWuze3hnmwK5YGzad5EsOsC9Y76xLdg8TtaNQhnU1M1OXRUCIW6wx-CsDbPaoj5pVO05-Kn-Y5M6WJrDqrc99qFiQCK0lIeC8p0FSK69Cm8eM3iH/s2048/IMG_0370.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik0_9JKVXbdNuQ2LSUgs9V5YWFjVnkIWuze3hnmwK5YGzad5EsOsC9Y76xLdg8TtaNQhnU1M1OXRUCIW6wx-CsDbPaoj5pVO05-Kn-Y5M6WJrDqrc99qFiQCK0lIeC8p0FSK69Cm8eM3iH/w240-h320/IMG_0370.JPG" width="240" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /></div></div><p>I finally made another pair in December 2019. Friends and family have exclaimed over the cleverness but I cannot claim any credit of course. That first original pair that I bought was by <a href="https://bodynits.com/" target="_blank">Bods/Bodynits</a>, a Singaporean brand. I do not know if they actually came up with the original pattern idea but I've seen a couple of different tutorials online, so I dare say the pattern is fair game. I toyed with writing the tutorial for over a year before I finally sat down and started.</p><p>My version has neatly bound edges and no sharp corners. I recommend using medium, medium-heavy weight cloth so that it hangs straight while walking, otherwise it has a tendency to flap open. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EgisXC-sNWZWVQ0z_Y4Uhx5k_vnWFeerqmeqR0jgis9HGzIYixnCWcMW7fEk2UOqS996gX9gKyWQ_nRzLKEHUS7E3NnfHopc0yY41nEYt96NJq7nnrSnWMzmtZKvdtu064NQTomRytmE/s2048/IMG_0372.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4EgisXC-sNWZWVQ0z_Y4Uhx5k_vnWFeerqmeqR0jgis9HGzIYixnCWcMW7fEk2UOqS996gX9gKyWQ_nRzLKEHUS7E3NnfHopc0yY41nEYt96NJq7nnrSnWMzmtZKvdtu064NQTomRytmE/s320/IMG_0372.JPG" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>This grey version is made with medium-weight twill, bound in black sateen cotton binding (self-made), and has two very basic rectangular patch pockets. It also fastens with buttons, front and back. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOL3aUqEbP6vRml6okXX7LJKjQV_2Ga6LDKd-70FBSqZBgq1n2wvQFQODExUgmO8GrLWTy5UBvewwIr8U1Zb3qk-L42UBwjbgssGhyphenhyphenPJoeQ7OzjaNV_kAKUdd0Jvzy-COM40b8KB46Sx0/s1849/grey+details.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="1849" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimOL3aUqEbP6vRml6okXX7LJKjQV_2Ga6LDKd-70FBSqZBgq1n2wvQFQODExUgmO8GrLWTy5UBvewwIr8U1Zb3qk-L42UBwjbgssGhyphenhyphenPJoeQ7OzjaNV_kAKUdd0Jvzy-COM40b8KB46Sx0/w640-h254/grey+details.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><p>The orange art print version I show in the tutorial has the more usual waistband and tie-back; no pockets but you can easily add those according to your preferred size and style.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitSaFZvX5WHBdUywc38Zy09quYC48B79HTmjUspFqAbma0TOTS0ILRUnMFU5eL1XrBpJlXLocI5SZ0wGoKBzx_niGx5SMnBSKvlt398htkXBNxEXzQMn6bui7788iAHGNja0cXVOI-cT7m/s1503/orange+group.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="1503" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitSaFZvX5WHBdUywc38Zy09quYC48B79HTmjUspFqAbma0TOTS0ILRUnMFU5eL1XrBpJlXLocI5SZ0wGoKBzx_niGx5SMnBSKvlt398htkXBNxEXzQMn6bui7788iAHGNja0cXVOI-cT7m/w640-h258/orange+group.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><p>Preamble over. <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2021/02/wraparound-trousers-video-tutorial.html">Video Tutorial will be available in the post after this.</a></p><p></p><p> </p>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-27479506775971004472020-12-06T22:09:00.001+08:002020-12-06T22:50:52.184+08:00Mrs Low's Book Bag<p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Bg0pp4ei2lm3f0HoG3Lsrg7rw0-7Mogq6FevXQIHzBwD1G3sBdh5S1RQDC3-5IJjrVbKtR__DFsdARlolyiQR72nAdZa5JERJieL0tFjA-8w97eRFimS9Hfq2XDdZisO_LRqUsMp6qPO/s2048/IMG_0040.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Bg0pp4ei2lm3f0HoG3Lsrg7rw0-7Mogq6FevXQIHzBwD1G3sBdh5S1RQDC3-5IJjrVbKtR__DFsdARlolyiQR72nAdZa5JERJieL0tFjA-8w97eRFimS9Hfq2XDdZisO_LRqUsMp6qPO/s320/IMG_0040.JPG" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">We are almost at the end of the school year here in Malaysia. More significantly for my daughter, the end of this school year marks the end of her Primary school education. In previous years, there was a formal ceremony for the graduating class but of course, this year, Covid happened. So the official last day of school will be spent in front of her laptop and, I suspect, will be without much fanfare although some tears may be shed. The teachers she's had this year have mostly been the same for the past 3 years, all of whom were invested in helping their charges complete the National exams for Primary 6 (the UPSR) with some degree of excellence. However, the UPSR was cancelled this year because, you know, Covid happened. Nonetheless, her teachers, like all teachers everywhere, had to rally and reinvent the classroom, all while still attempting to deliver solid lessons modified to suit the logistical challenges that arose. </span></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gY0Xl80GP1ugz2GcmrnB5l-m33UXboQN4t_GX7e1T1NM6024-Tx-bEmGPUWa8bKpYIdlJo5Jkqg-GZdOR0HzQrMC_MNT6dsyDYgx5uPWoMY9Btd05t0iRrgG6U83ZTAYDzW97g6T-pQ5/s2048/IMG_0041.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6gY0Xl80GP1ugz2GcmrnB5l-m33UXboQN4t_GX7e1T1NM6024-Tx-bEmGPUWa8bKpYIdlJo5Jkqg-GZdOR0HzQrMC_MNT6dsyDYgx5uPWoMY9Btd05t0iRrgG6U83ZTAYDzW97g6T-pQ5/s320/IMG_0041.JPG" /></a></div><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">As a Thank You, I thought I'd make tote bags for Nikhita's teachers for them to lug the kids' workbooks and exercises home to mark, assuming that life will get back to normal soon. I know this would have been a more suitable Teachers' Day gift but Teachers' Day this year (May 16th) was during the first round of lockdown here in Malaysia (dear Covid, what was life like without you?) and everyone was still getting their bearings. Teachers' Day passed without a sound. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">So not quite late, yet doubly appreciative, I present Mrs Low's Book Bag (+matching mask).</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/917088815/book-bag-with-matching-face-mask" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="2000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSBKQSk_CTXFzmXfgI5kmYUmwN4TwQCcrcLIlIEHhtTBMx0VNnRR86i6RKITjvjbkTR5_u3gTYM-NcKBKmHNpgeTI6thWh0HcUM9YSLSQ1Ygs8RHiKxRQj9clXeeZC5n5gnS_v2B5KiVF/s320/Mrs+Low%2527s+Book+bag.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: helvetica; text-align: left;">Mrs Low was my own Form Teacher back when I was in Primary One in the Bronze Age. She was tall, classy and seemed perfectly impeccable to my 7-year-old self. She was patient and kind and I don't remember her ever raising her voice at us. I was in total awe of her and it would make my day to get a smile and a word of praise from her. </span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">One day, Mrs Low commented on the practicality of my new school bag. It was a big red tote with an over-sized pocket on the front. She liked it so much that she asked me if she could bother my mum to get the same one for her. I was over the moon with glee (and secret pride)! Well, my mum got her a blue version because they were out of the red. When presented with it, Mrs Low beamed at my mum and said she much preferred the blue, which caused my mum to apologise even more profusely (we are Asians after all). Everyone went away very pleased with themselves that day and the memory permanently imprinted on my impressionable mind. Mrs Low began using that bag the very next day to carry all our books for marking. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Years later, my older brother who had been at the same school told me that Mrs Low was actually very well to do and had no real need to work (caveat - this was the era of the stay-at-home-married-woman) but chose to because she must surely have loved teaching. So my estimation of her grew even more so many years later and why this tote is named after her. I wonder sometimes if she inspired my own journey towards teaching.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">I hope I can convey my appreciation to Nikhita's teachers well enough with the hand-crafted bags. The inclusion of the matching mask is an apt souvenir of 2020, I feel.</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0T76v_l0RO17MTQeJOSsNi2bPqIvkQG_6oa1_hyWk1gZwnai4epgBsUAyAsaChR6fe38FK65HJ3pvCfHXF7n0SdpSTCk6AVmO5f3V3QZvKH2Z0VYeI5_KBxOcaftFAHqjRnIQBeWgJMwl/s2048/IMG_0042.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0T76v_l0RO17MTQeJOSsNi2bPqIvkQG_6oa1_hyWk1gZwnai4epgBsUAyAsaChR6fe38FK65HJ3pvCfHXF7n0SdpSTCk6AVmO5f3V3QZvKH2Z0VYeI5_KBxOcaftFAHqjRnIQBeWgJMwl/s320/IMG_0042.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">If you like the tote (and mask), you can order your own version <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/917088815/book-bag-with-matching-face-mask" target="_blank">here</a> for the teachers of every kind in your life. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Happy holidays 🎄</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">ON-TIME for CHRISTMAS DELIVERY:</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Malaysia - Order by Dec 10th for shipping out by Dec 15th (shipping upgrade not necessary).</span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">Rest of the World - Order by Dec 10th and upgrade to EXPRESS SHIPPING ✈</span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: helvetica;">*Note on the Face Mask - Reversible face mask in print fabric to match with the bag, and a light-weight grey cotton (denim effect). Additional PPE layer in between fabric layers for added protection. Please understand that these cloth masks cannot be certified medical grade.</span></p><p><br /></p>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-13977881574034892652020-11-25T15:05:00.000+08:002020-11-25T15:05:52.085+08:00Why do they call it Black Friday?<div style="text-align: left;">(<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Friday_(shopping)#Origin_of_the_term" target="_blank">This, apparently.</a>)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6GwoKflI_gzYwrtpi7uAEjcd-Wqr10_Q73JxgjS5261UYG1KyXnj4AFzHCHKlMfkt_s6pENDw5m2juMyfj4sFyrRoTI6KKaIywjh2FgTtDYX8iLvcwRz_kPZfdDcDzleDyTCbw9n5YAl3/s2048/cybersale2020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6GwoKflI_gzYwrtpi7uAEjcd-Wqr10_Q73JxgjS5261UYG1KyXnj4AFzHCHKlMfkt_s6pENDw5m2juMyfj4sFyrRoTI6KKaIywjh2FgTtDYX8iLvcwRz_kPZfdDcDzleDyTCbw9n5YAl3/s320/cybersale2020.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">We are one month to Christmas. Obviously. To my American readers, Happy Thanksgiving. To the rest of us, Happy Day of Gratitude because regardless of culture, any day is a good day to take stock of the bits and pieces that make our daily grind less grindy. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Like a SALE.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Cyber Week is upon us and I'd like to invite you to join me on my bandwagon. From now until 3rd December 2020, everything in my <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheMeasuringTape" target="_blank">shop</a> is 10% off when you spend $40 and above. So if you've been eyeing that <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheMeasuringTape?ref=seller-platform-mcnav&section_id=14485351" target="_blank">corset</a> or want a <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheMeasuringTape?ref=seller-platform-mcnav&section_id=5836357" target="_blank">customised corset pattern</a>, it's a good time now to go for it!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I'm also running the Cyber Sale in my other RTW shop, <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/FranciscaD" target="_blank">Francisca&D</a>. 10% off everything, no minimums necessary. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">As trying as this year has been for many of us, there is a certain kind of perverse reassurance in knowing that the whole world has been thrown into the same loop. Suddenly, masks have become de rigueur, it's polite to stand 6-feet apart, and yea, let's have coffee over Zoom, shall we?</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-44423834163611082972020-07-06T22:40:00.049+08:002021-03-05T23:05:29.532+08:00Seam Allowances According to Seam TypesIn my <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/06/seam-allowances.html" style="line-height: 1.5;">last pos</a>t, I wrote about the <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/06/seam-allowances.html#no%20seam%20allowance" id="no seam allowance" name="no seam allowance" style="line-height: 1.5;">benefits of not adding seam allowances</a> until AFTER certain adjustments and processes are done. I lamented on the blanket use of a single width of seam allowance every where on commercial patterns from the usual popular pattern companies and I explained a little on why this is problematic. In professional practice, dressmakers, tailors, and ready-to-wear garment producers will use different widths of seam allowances at different parts of the pattern because this is actually more efficient in garment making.<br>
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Custom/bespoke dressmakers and tailors will likely have their own preferred widths (for different seams and seam types) in consideration of alterations required during the fitting process and for potential future need (to lengthen the garment or increase width). I have seen tailor-made dresses with 1-inch seam allowances on the side seams. This is not surprising when considering that custom-made usually equates with expensive, so one must provide for long-term wear in terms of accommodating a client's possible expanding girth. </div>
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</div><a href="http://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/07/seam-allowances-how-much-is-based-on.html#more"></a>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-8777784362267459372020-06-24T18:44:00.012+08:002020-07-06T15:26:30.649+08:00Seam AllowancesFirst of all, thank you to all of you who signed up for my <a href="https://mymeasuringtape.teachable.com/p/drafting-basics-1" style="line-height: 1.5;">online course on how to draft a basic bodice</a> (sloper). I hope you've received the <a href="https://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/05/new-old-pattern-versatile-blouse.html" style="line-height: 1.5;">free pattern</a> that I promised to those of you who signed up from the link on<a href="http://www.ikatbag.com/2020/05/online-drafting-course.html" style="line-height: 1.5;"> this promotional post</a> made by my dear friend Li-Er over at Ikat Bag. If you haven't received it, please click <a href="https://mailchi.mp/10a6f45b5c4b/thank-you-for-enrolling" style="line-height: 1.5;">here</a> and I'll make sure to send it ASAP!<div style="line-height: 1.5;"><br></div><div style="line-height: 1.5;">I'm in the middle of creating another pattern for <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheMeasuringTape?ref=hdr_shop_menu" style="line-height: 1.5;">the shop</a> which encompasses a lot of testing and re-drafting and re-testing. If you've used my sewing patterns, you'll know that I never include seam allowances into the finished *pattern. I have my reasons for that, and before I get into those, let me go back in time a bit...<span style="line-height: 1.5;"></span></div><a href="http://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/06/seam-allowances.html#more"></a>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-9561712261684543262020-05-25T16:48:00.017+08:002020-06-27T16:56:45.244+08:00Calculating Measurements for Drafting a Basic BlockOne of the more frequent 'complaints' I get from my students is understanding how to divide the circumferential numbers into sensible proportions for the Front and Back blocks. Most books will tell you to divide these numbers equally. While this method might work in a general sense, it will still require A LOT of muslin testing for fit, and thereafter tweaking of the block pattern. <span></span><a href="http://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/05/calculating-measurements-for-drafting.html#more"></a>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-36835840028790741962020-05-11T17:35:00.005+08:002020-11-25T12:37:05.304+08:00Online Drafting Course<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFu7DdMh8wI3RZkFMaaWVWxXb25KQgJWUZsOP-HN5H_wtSJCUzRZ2HAiXjwscUjEA6J5RbNNCGsNpdyiKxpNa-XBkssldWotEJwiFhYoKyI6U-z8f4ArqZ2h2yBGP1n9Z99TY7m_YaHXhyphenhyphen/s2048/Promo+thumbnail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1152" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFu7DdMh8wI3RZkFMaaWVWxXb25KQgJWUZsOP-HN5H_wtSJCUzRZ2HAiXjwscUjEA6J5RbNNCGsNpdyiKxpNa-XBkssldWotEJwiFhYoKyI6U-z8f4ArqZ2h2yBGP1n9Z99TY7m_YaHXhyphenhyphen/s320/Promo+thumbnail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Drafting Basics 1</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">How to Draft a Basic Bodice Block</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>I've been wanting to do this for a long time but kept NOT doing it for one reason or another. It took a pandemic and being forced to stay home to finally give me the motivation to sit my butt down and do it.<div><br /></div><div>Amazingly, from the moment I sat down until I hit that 'publish' button, there was no desire to do anything else. From figuring out which software(s) to use and learning how to navigate them all, to researching on which platform I wanted to publish on, it was a smooth flow of one thing leading to another, in spite of so-called hiccups and technical snafus. The Discovery was so enjoyable that I fretted not at all and just kept at it, feeling like an explorer of sorts.</div><div><br /></div><div>Much love and appreciation to my beta testers Claudine and Lorraine (of <a href="http://www.ikatbag.com/">Ikatbag</a> who has appeared here from time to time) for their time and invaluable feedback. </div><div><br /></div><div>For now, the plan is to start with basic but necessary skills. So the first course is on drafting a basic bodice block, or sloper, as it's known to some. Follow up modules are in the works. </div><div><br /></div><div>The course is available at <a href="https://www.udemy.com/course/themeasuringtape-drafting-basics-1/?referralCode=C434C5D59D6FCF90FBAF">Udemy</a> and <a href="https://mymeasuringtape.teachable.com/p/drafting-basics-1">Teachable</a>, whichever suits your fancy. However, if you sign up at <a href="https://mymeasuringtape.teachable.com/p/drafting-basics-1">Teachable</a>, you will get my <a href="https://mymeasuringtape.teachable.com/">Versatile Blouse pattern for FREE</a>.</div><div> </div><div>Stay safe and take care of each other.</div><div><br /></div>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-42866003544002199442020-05-11T17:35:00.004+08:002020-11-25T12:34:44.429+08:00Drafting Basics 1 - Online Course<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieE34fR48LPvRjEPpWWFYebPTywHSIbIC7NFs0Fwn0PcTZAcp5a0f82btm6iZVnOiX3l0H5Zqs2ced7vJ0e621KcOTzwXUeQ27QVTh9kILIiI8DjMXgyglYkT3bNditZPqgCRVnhNIH50p/s2002/Promo+thumbnail4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1135" data-original-width="2002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieE34fR48LPvRjEPpWWFYebPTywHSIbIC7NFs0Fwn0PcTZAcp5a0f82btm6iZVnOiX3l0H5Zqs2ced7vJ0e621KcOTzwXUeQ27QVTh9kILIiI8DjMXgyglYkT3bNditZPqgCRVnhNIH50p/s320/Promo+thumbnail4.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dz-REeK_lfJzcmkv9NMEV5AIEA4_3xznTiTc-LpaKLUncNJc2wfqOQu7vMQKwtzUz8PCUnPCbp1om5igiKu6Q' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div> >> <a href="https://mymeasuringtape.teachable.com/p/drafting-basics-1">Go to course</a><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqG9clcty6zMNqcwg5j6Ui8WxOaKJ5HdTfvcdbzxLEBrBFynP3eL4KOogjAF0OPfThixgvlfa8ToNazmxqF7mSw0Tf_huAP2ALeeDZ01GBcMJSHFVVjtoqnnPeOmeNqTbM6vnKJHPxJv1V/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqG9clcty6zMNqcwg5j6Ui8WxOaKJ5HdTfvcdbzxLEBrBFynP3eL4KOogjAF0OPfThixgvlfa8ToNazmxqF7mSw0Tf_huAP2ALeeDZ01GBcMJSHFVVjtoqnnPeOmeNqTbM6vnKJHPxJv1V/s320/Frame-01608.png" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-1342999344906592392020-05-03T15:24:00.004+08:002021-03-19T15:58:51.118+08:00New (old) Pattern - A Versatile Blouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/787966340/a-versatile-blouse-sleeveless-cut-in" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1483" data-original-width="987" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYK3T5k59Iyq__oflDpp1gmrPzmTkWcz6YLgQqzHRjQhzcwmCTtiN18driZzJ0S8Xc_TdaZG-DU4uJvKWfKAR-hZSNdFxDW2OnsHnY4c6AL9vL6_l4YVN7IeXa97EFssE6cuBqf__iwIjf/s320/cover.jpg"></a></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div style="line-height: 1.5;"><div style="line-height: 1.5;">This is a 'new & improved' version of my original pattern. Everything about it has been revamped, from the pattern pieces themselves to the instruction manual, which now includes detailed illustrations and clearer steps.</div><div style="line-height: 1.5;"><br></div><div style="line-height: 1.5;">I call it a Versatile Blouse pattern because I've used it to make a few different renditions; with a band collar, with an open keyhole front neckline, as a mini dress by extending the hemline.</div><div style="line-height: 1.5;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjXrmdQaH-p7XzXza2eHjyjwwrnmXYaCzZ9Hwi9EodOCyROudPfwrg-zIQHBRnfQtKBELzlucnmCVwG1gAV4dXZNqP7rYxi4Ed-lUTZYcSIe5vcyt9q8XK7jGypYv9_-DXhCJwAxLFkR7/s2048/IMG_0580+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1225" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjXrmdQaH-p7XzXza2eHjyjwwrnmXYaCzZ9Hwi9EodOCyROudPfwrg-zIQHBRnfQtKBELzlucnmCVwG1gAV4dXZNqP7rYxi4Ed-lUTZYcSIe5vcyt9q8XK7jGypYv9_-DXhCJwAxLFkR7/s320/IMG_0580+%25282%2529.JPG"></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVL-LRFoEh5jMJzRR6j6OyfKKsBjWVVh-2PHeMsDIzw120qlyg-OQiCA-Yofod1kbNeUiTnHaOFWtgdW3E8HyvzPQsKrsaqf5o_bwuk7EC_Jgelak1efzeZO-5ZVxEfckEzSD4bYv3HDl2/s2048/IMG_0582+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1320" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVL-LRFoEh5jMJzRR6j6OyfKKsBjWVVh-2PHeMsDIzw120qlyg-OQiCA-Yofod1kbNeUiTnHaOFWtgdW3E8HyvzPQsKrsaqf5o_bwuk7EC_Jgelak1efzeZO-5ZVxEfckEzSD4bYv3HDl2/s320/IMG_0582+%25282%2529.JPG"></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Original neckline, with front waist darts left unstitched for a looser fit</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br></i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg55loqFE0TGRk05ER7hlNS2fjMcIz0UI59cZAjNGhuUiQV2krOg-Hq_iXF2CGzO-WpZRiOoBwVDEG3iVFv0Acd-55WlZ6yvRHlGywVvEfHcHkQkcB1ws9ld4BJraW-MwzGUYRVqVzfmTm/s2048/IMG_0584+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1508" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg55loqFE0TGRk05ER7hlNS2fjMcIz0UI59cZAjNGhuUiQV2krOg-Hq_iXF2CGzO-WpZRiOoBwVDEG3iVFv0Acd-55WlZ6yvRHlGywVvEfHcHkQkcB1ws9ld4BJraW-MwzGUYRVqVzfmTm/s320/IMG_0584+%25282%2529.JPG"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yXQME32Uy2-ELwEpZKiCMKKKiN7nzaRa0e_2prZr_bVgmO8_7inryVEJlPt9kdn0_mMKO4n_ri-Zlu7MdntokR0WxX_PqKWRRjbDFE0hM876tGKG0hufXK_-jJqAQzV43KOtsUMQs53S/s2048/IMG_0586+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1535" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1yXQME32Uy2-ELwEpZKiCMKKKiN7nzaRa0e_2prZr_bVgmO8_7inryVEJlPt9kdn0_mMKO4n_ri-Zlu7MdntokR0WxX_PqKWRRjbDFE0hM876tGKG0hufXK_-jJqAQzV43KOtsUMQs53S/s320/IMG_0586+%25282%2529.JPG"></a><br><i>With a narrow band collar, all darts stitched for a more fitted shape.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i> </i></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGyUdgJRYaBkM_PZJ9GL3uoaofGr6xFsDXPIQTvD2aNA5T6o-_jwICNdVvBfwsykiM8-njM6ncPtoTqboX50Qf923Clzs-AJWJfIvA_SLeG2z61JIj2V9emiqKZa6F9PiRI7a-Elg1Nsu/s2048/IMG_0588+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1066" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGyUdgJRYaBkM_PZJ9GL3uoaofGr6xFsDXPIQTvD2aNA5T6o-_jwICNdVvBfwsykiM8-njM6ncPtoTqboX50Qf923Clzs-AJWJfIvA_SLeG2z61JIj2V9emiqKZa6F9PiRI7a-Elg1Nsu/s320/IMG_0588+%25282%2529.JPG"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3fJBAkFNUxO9BbKVoSJg0e95f2UvNn3w21AGMw89QtOullyV_0SZ8jf8Dno5ua5l7C_aAqh4vxmz92NsWLF1WGEmH-KYp856pfBZz3RYEdkZ7Q_yuDOIL9szsFmCjUOM696Ad2w4eVvp/s2048/IMG_0590+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3fJBAkFNUxO9BbKVoSJg0e95f2UvNn3w21AGMw89QtOullyV_0SZ8jf8Dno5ua5l7C_aAqh4vxmz92NsWLF1WGEmH-KYp856pfBZz3RYEdkZ7Q_yuDOIL9szsFmCjUOM696Ad2w4eVvp/s320/IMG_0590+%25282%2529.JPG"></a><br><i>With a shaped neckline, no facings but finished with binding, including the bottom hem</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i> All darts stitched.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><br></i></div><br><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorveintFI_jysghRX4Ht85fBoSCN7sBsNbA-tB1c5DbV5dC2O2eBSq8lfSIPxUjDyvd2OBmc_CiDak4jjfQxebTIrAGu_vGJARXrxRECrpcBRzo8qTRHbab6TF8BwOrfirLfjLauLBH1O/s2048/IMG_0591+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1427" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiorveintFI_jysghRX4Ht85fBoSCN7sBsNbA-tB1c5DbV5dC2O2eBSq8lfSIPxUjDyvd2OBmc_CiDak4jjfQxebTIrAGu_vGJARXrxRECrpcBRzo8qTRHbab6TF8BwOrfirLfjLauLBH1O/s320/IMG_0591+%25282%2529.JPG"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8zbY55J5i-WzB1EdyZPrXPZfCEohrKvlpzUerQGAyZM6AoWKqMn2yjs8f33kzEmZ5XxBTk8h5Q9fS9A9RXqHCVvVBvU77WKO0hbrdzZKa1ct2l9tkpzbSRkPhAJ63kN7QHVT6JzwZxqRI/s2048/IMG_0594+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1387" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8zbY55J5i-WzB1EdyZPrXPZfCEohrKvlpzUerQGAyZM6AoWKqMn2yjs8f33kzEmZ5XxBTk8h5Q9fS9A9RXqHCVvVBvU77WKO0hbrdzZKa1ct2l9tkpzbSRkPhAJ63kN7QHVT6JzwZxqRI/s320/IMG_0594+%25282%2529.JPG"></a><br><i>With a boat neckline; made by first extending the shoulder line, which then also allowed for the inclusion of the cap sleeves after redrawing the armscye.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Length of the blouse extended into a mini dress.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div style="line-height: 1.5;"><br></div></div><div style="line-height: 1.5;"><span style="line-height: 1.5;"></span></div><a href="http://www.mymeasuringtape.com/2020/05/new-old-pattern-versatile-blouse.html#more"></a>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-42452485216658357742019-07-27T11:45:00.002+08:002020-04-17T01:16:16.352+08:00Custom Underbust (& Overbust) Corsets - Available again!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/14231135/custom-underbust-corset?ref=listing_published_alert" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="1242" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWf8AeB_O_9aNuCzjHjEw-9717on9d8U3KWZ81wdjo7EjikD3K7jSnO-S6Ayg4Xjmre6wBlAmvW0keIWGlXQNRwaaN-F_iXCnR3bNmrsvcFCNjxZdm22tpiMxMmwOpo7Uitio_xxx0biZL/s400/DSCN4730.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm again open to <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/14231135/custom-underbust-corset?ref=listing_published_alert" target="_blank">custom orders for corsets</a>.<br />
<br />
I'm limiting it to 4 orders per month, so take note of possible delays in turnaround times. Typically, an order will send out 1 week after confirmation of sale and measurements.<br />
<br />
Please see the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheMeasuringTape?listing_id=17896439&ref=shop_overview_header&section_id=14485351&sort_order=relevance" target="_blank">listing</a> for details or you may email me directly.<br />
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Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-89520088143832164702017-01-01T23:34:00.001+08:002020-04-17T18:52:43.559+08:00Happy New Year!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzx6Xi1yXEi2KsTQu2jLIgtzL6hbp94B7ObMpQxXv9hEevTy6ekgm_elJH8m4QfYkKp4R3UaZFnoo6Qcc2Ajg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Wishing one and all a beautiful, abundant and enriching 2017!<br />
<br />
The fireworks are still going off in my city...<br />
I guess the partying still hasn't ended for some ☺<br />
And why should it?<br />
Every day is the start of a new year ahead; we should always rejoice in the fact that we get to start over with the dawn.<br />
In fact,<i> every moment in time</i> is an opportunity to start afresh.<br />
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2016 was a time of awakenings and beginnings for me, and I'm ever grateful for the shake-downs I've had in the past year.<br />
It's too sad to grow through daily life in a rut of mundane routines and over-scheduling.<br />
The past is a has-been, and the future is still an illusion.<br />
Plan for the future, yes, but LIVE in the moment!<br />
Make every minute count; listen to bird songs, smell the fresh air, smile at random passers-by...you've really got nothing to lose but only joy to gain.<br />
And most importantly, follow your instincts.<br />
They are God's/the Universe's way of nudging us towards the 'good' stuff.<br />
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I'm grateful for the lessons I've learnt in 2016, and I'm grateful for yet more to learn in 2017.<br />
<br />
On that note, you can look forward to more tips and tutorials in the coming weeks and months.<br />
And I'd like to invite you to follow me on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/themeasuringtape/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> too for some eye-candy.<br />
<br />
Lots of love and light to you!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicUXGeLUVvfME7emNbmo37hmph_uENmcNMr5OBVjXSjXwTlTBS81KnvHbEiqbRGvAzh9msdJGCfBDHY8Pi-VoMdDoXzzhe593NVNDJ5aRHP7TgpGrLBviWf3GSuWO-SyrTZhIQ0MBFTHSS/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="481" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicUXGeLUVvfME7emNbmo37hmph_uENmcNMr5OBVjXSjXwTlTBS81KnvHbEiqbRGvAzh9msdJGCfBDHY8Pi-VoMdDoXzzhe593NVNDJ5aRHP7TgpGrLBviWf3GSuWO-SyrTZhIQ0MBFTHSS/s320/newyear-happy-new-year-hand-greeting-thumbnail.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-53334890510268123772016-12-30T23:56:00.001+08:002017-01-06T00:18:11.208+08:00How to Make a Basic Kaftan Top<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSid6lOpGVIP92L6SCpIdaq61MV8AYwANJ_uo50nPcPFIJ7bIyf9PjPwaBWXb3AmS8-TBvTixPjAHwb-Sd5i2J-Udb5-C6uKkJG5rbiMljGlNu4yq4Go7do6zIFcvticFWZn38he6Hanhyphenhyphen/s1600/9d45ffa1-909b-4ed3-95b5-c712693fc465.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSid6lOpGVIP92L6SCpIdaq61MV8AYwANJ_uo50nPcPFIJ7bIyf9PjPwaBWXb3AmS8-TBvTixPjAHwb-Sd5i2J-Udb5-C6uKkJG5rbiMljGlNu4yq4Go7do6zIFcvticFWZn38he6Hanhyphenhyphen/s400/9d45ffa1-909b-4ed3-95b5-c712693fc465.png" width="375" /></a></div>
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A kaftan is a loose fit blouse or dress.<br />
It is a favoured garment in hot climes for obvious reasons.<br />
Thus, it is somewhat of a traditional wear in various cultures across the world; from Malaysia, to India, to Africa.<br />
Some may have open sleeves, while others have regular, seamed but loose sleeves.<br />
The picture above is a kaftan blouse with open sleeves, and a boat neckline.<br />
<br />
It is made from a square piece of cloth that was at first a scarf. Yes, a scarf.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQ8pUDGeOyzQM6sAfgzewJ0STnuqHxB-ESygSsipfaO2EnHCzu4mpSqcM45O0xfTCcAGe2DqBJXHAu4ZB5BEsjbX61aRwnoHbFE98loJmoTqGhbofsyjHOcdAZ6GoYjbA4sC9WLo3wmku/s1600/62ac050c-5148-4420-b79a-5e8a9af37b32.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQ8pUDGeOyzQM6sAfgzewJ0STnuqHxB-ESygSsipfaO2EnHCzu4mpSqcM45O0xfTCcAGe2DqBJXHAu4ZB5BEsjbX61aRwnoHbFE98loJmoTqGhbofsyjHOcdAZ6GoYjbA4sC9WLo3wmku/s400/62ac050c-5148-4420-b79a-5e8a9af37b32.png" width="300" /></a></div>
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To make a kaftan blouse, you will need the following materials:<br />
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<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>a squarish piece of cloth measuring at least 45" by 45" (114cm by 114cm)</li>
<li>a pair of scissors</li>
<li>a sewing machine (although you can also do this entirely by hand)</li>
<li>sewing thread</li>
<li>ready-made bias binding (optional-depending on your choice of neckline shape)</li>
</ul>
<div>
Measurements to take: </div>
<div>
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>bust circumference + 4"</li>
<li>Bust height (from base of neck on shoulder, to bust point)</li>
<li>shoulder width - from left shoulder point, across the front neck, to right shoulder point</li>
<li>shoulder length - from left or right shoulder point, to side of neck on the same shoulder</li>
</ol>
<div>
Ready? Let's go 😊<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwV75fa16L01gdV6Sm6RtoRBDh7_BDKgM4IM5v4lVjs8ZZOS_vzEdByXZ4h9iH9-5LIosnGgKUUdvVXKTUUpTSiWphBat4j7jfhMWUcLELnv5o0Q-7Mjh-E20J-O6jZ9R1m_UfI4x8YTm/s1600/ce79662d-9123-4cc6-9407-7b8a93276c41.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBwV75fa16L01gdV6Sm6RtoRBDh7_BDKgM4IM5v4lVjs8ZZOS_vzEdByXZ4h9iH9-5LIosnGgKUUdvVXKTUUpTSiWphBat4j7jfhMWUcLELnv5o0Q-7Mjh-E20J-O6jZ9R1m_UfI4x8YTm/s200/ce79662d-9123-4cc6-9407-7b8a93276c41.png" width="183" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vKY3I2DlRZuP9snSuLSX8pzcEtDbYdSZ6ndVGcjyp4IObkySQ2zedBaHu5XOkWXi-iYKFGEToI03oS8ojX79Q4Xjd_JltC-WgWN607YU35ZHf_QVUeyDmca0ecNQMON_ljXOTnZSOC_b/s1600/e1d92913-d715-4052-8833-aea4746d1c2d.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vKY3I2DlRZuP9snSuLSX8pzcEtDbYdSZ6ndVGcjyp4IObkySQ2zedBaHu5XOkWXi-iYKFGEToI03oS8ojX79Q4Xjd_JltC-WgWN607YU35ZHf_QVUeyDmca0ecNQMON_ljXOTnZSOC_b/s200/e1d92913-d715-4052-8833-aea4746d1c2d.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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<div>
Steps;</div>
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<div>
Hem the raw edges of the cloth first.</div>
<div>
A narrow rolled hem is preferable but any neat double fold hem will do nicely.</div>
<div>
If you are using a ready-made scarf, then of course, you can skip the hemming.</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
fold the cloth into 2</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkaHRNGzrETOR9NA8cFfBuQPkBqYE7u7UsWphB1tazv9C7FBN1YCkPpShM92xpTr2uxmzfPoN1HynaEJ1UBI9ZXkxWsZ-22hoqF-kRQIFRn7_mtg7e5OZ8dBw01zctegZqm2AdCTr8NFRB/s1600/kaftan2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkaHRNGzrETOR9NA8cFfBuQPkBqYE7u7UsWphB1tazv9C7FBN1YCkPpShM92xpTr2uxmzfPoN1HynaEJ1UBI9ZXkxWsZ-22hoqF-kRQIFRn7_mtg7e5OZ8dBw01zctegZqm2AdCTr8NFRB/s400/kaftan2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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and fold again into quarters</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrV0rvQABvSVsvqC5Gesmhf3UE__xdohG9znwVykWb7S5-ztpfrPTt10Cn1oRFv9rRsY7AJlXjvfk-ETCzthuxWMc9th_4djPXWlWXJIf06KsB6q3g4KQuXEV_cKV5_CPKXo2dIWLJkx-y/s1600/kaftan3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrV0rvQABvSVsvqC5Gesmhf3UE__xdohG9znwVykWb7S5-ztpfrPTt10Cn1oRFv9rRsY7AJlXjvfk-ETCzthuxWMc9th_4djPXWlWXJIf06KsB6q3g4KQuXEV_cKV5_CPKXo2dIWLJkx-y/s400/kaftan3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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from the top of the foldline, measure and</div>
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mark out half the shoulder width</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaJNWbKBTAvTte74pb7eM0Wyx41l7PhUX_IuoU60TlwXvMU6l2RhvX9OO2C-NYqawEGSejANKHSQWWHVIcgQtnet1bl6nrnu8O1OdUDueYMwP6NalXa6Dm9DDXIGc8p0Up0DdYes6Fl0B/s1600/kaftan4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmaJNWbKBTAvTte74pb7eM0Wyx41l7PhUX_IuoU60TlwXvMU6l2RhvX9OO2C-NYqawEGSejANKHSQWWHVIcgQtnet1bl6nrnu8O1OdUDueYMwP6NalXa6Dm9DDXIGc8p0Up0DdYes6Fl0B/s400/kaftan4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
from the end of the shoulder width,</div>
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measure and mark out the shoulder length</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJyd-VGFZ0vGracVjQVExOHkKFhtq3yqLBMVegI1ztj7DUAOQu7UtjBHyNZcNxtz8lWYHt0ly4IUULkq1pv1cq3GgTZ-i7cAcgb7aeklmd03Bfy35UTjPXigoXgK1JgQhO0b_tfsaAljQ/s1600/kaftan5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJyd-VGFZ0vGracVjQVExOHkKFhtq3yqLBMVegI1ztj7DUAOQu7UtjBHyNZcNxtz8lWYHt0ly4IUULkq1pv1cq3GgTZ-i7cAcgb7aeklmd03Bfy35UTjPXigoXgK1JgQhO0b_tfsaAljQ/s400/kaftan5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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to make a boat neck, measure down 1"</div>
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from the top of the foldline.</div>
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for a round neck, measure down </div>
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at least 2" from the top of the foldline.</div>
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for a V-neck, measure down about 5"-6"</div>
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from the top of the foldline.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibtR71tOZgpg2cDQad8eiBJZhRDXG_RpABK6LVg6Qav6IoShRGeFUlx-ombjwuAuW05C_sMJWY5cPmiG6jFWFz42uwHugms-b3a2nxhSYEmJNyh1tYrtGWULeTSzIDAP7l29ixeAxpSdGb/s1600/kaftan6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibtR71tOZgpg2cDQad8eiBJZhRDXG_RpABK6LVg6Qav6IoShRGeFUlx-ombjwuAuW05C_sMJWY5cPmiG6jFWFz42uwHugms-b3a2nxhSYEmJNyh1tYrtGWULeTSzIDAP7l29ixeAxpSdGb/s400/kaftan6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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for the boat neck, measure and mark 2"</div>
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from the end of the shoulder width.</div>
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for a round neck and a V-neck, measure and mark 3"</div>
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from the end of the shoulder width.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-yXKO5ZurP0rBKuao3Cy-Q4bl8Gw4jvC_CbzswwEIV4rFfOGIYKVjFCwIHXAT_A4reIbfMI008_qyFC-Lf3GwDY1ItuRMWXAYZETMO0nBt55pNNyBgGU76vwaus0KOS53VDSbZ-wz2uAc/s1600/kaftan7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-yXKO5ZurP0rBKuao3Cy-Q4bl8Gw4jvC_CbzswwEIV4rFfOGIYKVjFCwIHXAT_A4reIbfMI008_qyFC-Lf3GwDY1ItuRMWXAYZETMO0nBt55pNNyBgGU76vwaus0KOS53VDSbZ-wz2uAc/s400/kaftan7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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draw a smooth curve from the marked point </div>
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on the shoulder to the point on the foldline.</div>
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OR</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRo4PXtxl5lytFmPagU_EYrDZ5oWMgpx_iouwrCh9Gf88zlMivXoxORqNL3qRsziDXsiETlAD-7OYmRb4r0lEupV18fMBMm2F2_UbEBtmd-lO1a1uuyKc-J7oiXCbMjdiQpsvl8gHRcJN_/s1600/kaftan14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRo4PXtxl5lytFmPagU_EYrDZ5oWMgpx_iouwrCh9Gf88zlMivXoxORqNL3qRsziDXsiETlAD-7OYmRb4r0lEupV18fMBMm2F2_UbEBtmd-lO1a1uuyKc-J7oiXCbMjdiQpsvl8gHRcJN_/s400/kaftan14.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
mark accordingly for other neckline shapes</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
from the top of the foldline, measure down</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
and mark the bust height</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwKInbBE6AjW0jx7zNtNqkkGMHPNZd1L1BrAHaBSV2GtcsDmCgmPuiCtKkiPlzEEtktWLKZk3mRSBsqEoGLZ_59XWJGNn1AsvpQ0ZEQdq4yw0WIbj3P9XQoZcLDCOKRw00CNKu7lCMAuVe/s1600/kaftan9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwKInbBE6AjW0jx7zNtNqkkGMHPNZd1L1BrAHaBSV2GtcsDmCgmPuiCtKkiPlzEEtktWLKZk3mRSBsqEoGLZ_59XWJGNn1AsvpQ0ZEQdq4yw0WIbj3P9XQoZcLDCOKRw00CNKu7lCMAuVe/s400/kaftan9.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
then from the marked point, measure across </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
one-quarter of (bust circumference+4')</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
and mark the point</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwVgyxq7xcCXGjq4o3DpdiaSIMfYRnz57JLKEm6MHeYBiaNUwoAq5k2Fs3trSJWj2Xtd5KopT0lSXoOY_OlKtoPQ5zsQATZ_fuUkuY2Vz8nfvdOGoQMW4EZnZURlv_sFYIt3fDcBW_L2-W/s1600/kaftan10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwVgyxq7xcCXGjq4o3DpdiaSIMfYRnz57JLKEm6MHeYBiaNUwoAq5k2Fs3trSJWj2Xtd5KopT0lSXoOY_OlKtoPQ5zsQATZ_fuUkuY2Vz8nfvdOGoQMW4EZnZURlv_sFYIt3fDcBW_L2-W/s400/kaftan10.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
use a chalk or water soluble pen to draw a line</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
down from the point marked above</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj04hoUaJXHIgvSyLv5a-i8DSK9qPMLs5HlVoY35WWXmGpmWhZTZp6kWBW_5qm82WRmJESvFRAmKzwAR_Wkb3bAiw4xATgM5oQNcYCz_NJV6HpQcLZD2NA6NV4swWGHZrkuQK096ZVNAeo4/s1600/kaftan11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj04hoUaJXHIgvSyLv5a-i8DSK9qPMLs5HlVoY35WWXmGpmWhZTZp6kWBW_5qm82WRmJESvFRAmKzwAR_Wkb3bAiw4xATgM5oQNcYCz_NJV6HpQcLZD2NA6NV4swWGHZrkuQK096ZVNAeo4/s400/kaftan11.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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if you prefer a wider hip, slant the line out </div>
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about an inch or two.</div>
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pin the layers together and </div>
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mark the other side as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmqRzO8KyQkb4zCs4ek9nPGfTWOw0L-iwYJwh2Pj5mEQ8sOWTiBHe2mS3zPhVE6E_96vgNtLeLRnwKb6cISqr9DsUioguslEBwB9umDs8u4rJW8X5gxAIrZ89L4majWIlcYTAnmKRgZzd0/s1600/kaftan12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmqRzO8KyQkb4zCs4ek9nPGfTWOw0L-iwYJwh2Pj5mEQ8sOWTiBHe2mS3zPhVE6E_96vgNtLeLRnwKb6cISqr9DsUioguslEBwB9umDs8u4rJW8X5gxAIrZ89L4majWIlcYTAnmKRgZzd0/s400/kaftan12.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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now cut out the neckline</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlAkPqag8M4_EVKBprT9M02TTqRQHoDo7pa3vaOZbE0rKr80GWBqP9q-cWi_8mcQg7MerWUyJUkkrV_-R_MWw86ysUwB3PHlQF-PcOl5ncTl1VLRdLlheEAfn7xk9yHK5XYRpxj6pbVTm_/s1600/kaftan13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlAkPqag8M4_EVKBprT9M02TTqRQHoDo7pa3vaOZbE0rKr80GWBqP9q-cWi_8mcQg7MerWUyJUkkrV_-R_MWw86ysUwB3PHlQF-PcOl5ncTl1VLRdLlheEAfn7xk9yHK5XYRpxj6pbVTm_/s400/kaftan13.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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unfold once and you should have your kaftan</div>
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marked and ready for some sewing.</div>
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To finish the neckline, use the ready-made bias binding to wrap around the cut edge.</div>
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I recommend you do this if you have opted for a round or V-neckline.</div>
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For the boat neck, you can do a narrow rolled 'hem' finish.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidi3AJ9-ouatknexzIQ-B-HDAczcwN55dx2TGmltVPhulJjRCax3E1lD7JSOhZk999FXkIM7WxUloIwOF-AHIjpwwA5POb9pAcmp4EY9_byKZqFUfHEkbNvkbWjTd2Rfsq4uoEfCaTi8cK/s1600/0ab27f65-dd6c-4fc9-9fd2-3b14fa4ea357+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidi3AJ9-ouatknexzIQ-B-HDAczcwN55dx2TGmltVPhulJjRCax3E1lD7JSOhZk999FXkIM7WxUloIwOF-AHIjpwwA5POb9pAcmp4EY9_byKZqFUfHEkbNvkbWjTd2Rfsq4uoEfCaTi8cK/s400/0ab27f65-dd6c-4fc9-9fd2-3b14fa4ea357+%25281%2529.png" width="348" /></a></div>
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this was rolled by hand and hand-stitched with a simple running stitch.</div>
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The next step is to stitch the 'side seam' to create the open butterfly sleeves.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJn4_D74Y_gTmncqORHydYhN0Qifjm8khCkfz4L0X3K_kKMxXpfVJ9KBPV5xoEGasTWvOQVWeKzTmsHPGuTgIHaHy-tY0DSNiPKbMPgGjh7koWiOhcT3YS33coaFyFtQ9X_bY4zpEZRlss/s1600/kaftan15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJn4_D74Y_gTmncqORHydYhN0Qifjm8khCkfz4L0X3K_kKMxXpfVJ9KBPV5xoEGasTWvOQVWeKzTmsHPGuTgIHaHy-tY0DSNiPKbMPgGjh7koWiOhcT3YS33coaFyFtQ9X_bY4zpEZRlss/s400/kaftan15.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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as it says, pin through both layers and sew along the line.</div>
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You can definitely do this by hand with a simple running stitch as well.</div>
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<br /></div>
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And that's it.</div>
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Simple, no?</div>
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<br /></div>
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The same method applies to a kaftan dress.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Just measure your body length from shoulder to the floor and multiply that by 2 to get the length of cloth necessary.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkf-bpb7dlyEjluZUVzw4NXdtZXKHpKB-YZcWKmF5jkwB71C2ugvW-Yf8fO4I2onql5-VnjXQ5yetYtGfQ-7UO5Nc49gvuVZjbU1Bhe72M3ktL_kAmLi3jETnFq56VuZfXv2ZIWwFHmIIu/s1600/kaftan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkf-bpb7dlyEjluZUVzw4NXdtZXKHpKB-YZcWKmF5jkwB71C2ugvW-Yf8fO4I2onql5-VnjXQ5yetYtGfQ-7UO5Nc49gvuVZjbU1Bhe72M3ktL_kAmLi3jETnFq56VuZfXv2ZIWwFHmIIu/s400/kaftan.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you do try this out, feel free to share your kaftan project on social media and tag or link back to me 😎.</div>
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Happy sewing, everyone!</div>
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Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-81800918065321710602016-12-22T18:53:00.000+08:002016-12-22T18:53:41.607+08:00On my drafting table(2) - Romper pattern for women<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMmE2aF3gjdX8XmhmqEGUwH92dtHqUg8HiKA7EE-nYgZyA4MxDN22i4PYuWdDLJilKI2TOR20rAViAbEqju4ebqoQ3st_Jotzz0Y42XtMLrnqUJenhKD7AeAnv1maL7IP90hxuGQHksgFs/s1600/sketch+jumper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMmE2aF3gjdX8XmhmqEGUwH92dtHqUg8HiKA7EE-nYgZyA4MxDN22i4PYuWdDLJilKI2TOR20rAViAbEqju4ebqoQ3st_Jotzz0Y42XtMLrnqUJenhKD7AeAnv1maL7IP90hxuGQHksgFs/s400/sketch+jumper.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Drafting the <a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.se/2016/12/on-my-drafting-table.html" target="_blank">romper pattern</a> turned out to be more straightforward than I first imagined.<br />
The diagonal colour-blocking were really a non-issue and I knew that.<br />
Draft the romper pattern first, then draw in the lines for colour-blocking, cut, add seam allowances, and voila!<br />
I ended up with just 5 main pattern pieces (facings were later drafted).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS4MQV45IxN_kFH8ehhRl_0YHxF5sbZasxUpThyUc7AzTl9mgnPLz9W4fAUD_9Lxw79TzP4VtzAGs0XTZl0BP8goLgj6uU5a-p8mKZbTmZt-omI9RtxD5D8J5902dSEeCYDE1uWztNfTLc/s1600/20161212_173520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS4MQV45IxN_kFH8ehhRl_0YHxF5sbZasxUpThyUc7AzTl9mgnPLz9W4fAUD_9Lxw79TzP4VtzAGs0XTZl0BP8goLgj6uU5a-p8mKZbTmZt-omI9RtxD5D8J5902dSEeCYDE1uWztNfTLc/s400/20161212_173520.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The cloth was not cut on the bias in the end.<br />
I left it on grain, and cut the bust darts into the seam at the top of the V.<br />
Waist darts were completely eliminated for a loose and relaxed fit, as per the client's instructions.<br />
<br />
She loved it in the end.<br />
I'm proud to say it took only one fitting, and that was to determine the length of the shoulder straps.<br />
Everything else fit...but then again, I've worked with this client for such a long time and for so many garments that I've had sufficient practice where drafting for her body is concerned.<br />
<br />
It was a fun project.<br />
Wish I had pictures to show you of the finished garment, but alas it didn't look like anything on a hangar...<br />
I'm awaiting pictures from the client, however.<br />
<br />
<br />Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-25670299012841855942016-12-09T00:40:00.000+08:002016-12-09T00:50:57.711+08:00On My Drafting Table...Wow...I've had so many late nights this week that midnight is beginning to sound <i>early</i> to me!<br />
<br />
Yes, it's midnight now and I'm up blogging 😂...<br />
<br />
...about the thing I love doing - pattern drafting!<br />
<br />
I prefer it over sewing, hands down.<br />
Sewing itself gets a bit tedious at times.<br />
Especially when it's mass production work.<br />
But I know some people who like the auto-ness of mass production (I'm looking at you, <a href="http://www.ikatbag.com/" target="_blank">LiEr</a>!)<br />
<br />
Pattern-drafting, on the other hand, is all about the engineering; melding fit and design into creating something that <b>works</b>.<br />
What a turn-on!<br />
<br />
So on my drafting table this week is this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1PuEJyX7UqvskmlMIOdELXQy85XrxUME1ZzZFNhkGLBTLAijjRXjpeqwez9iyAFL_7Ubhv_w3xbyFCV1wv8IgKTd8vg1q6DdaGdEJA46Z1v2tUUfM3t-4Tykq4_tEXEtR2dlStzWaU5OA/s1600/sketch+jumper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1PuEJyX7UqvskmlMIOdELXQy85XrxUME1ZzZFNhkGLBTLAijjRXjpeqwez9iyAFL_7Ubhv_w3xbyFCV1wv8IgKTd8vg1q6DdaGdEJA46Z1v2tUUfM3t-4Tykq4_tEXEtR2dlStzWaU5OA/s400/sketch+jumper.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
It's a jumper obviously, or romper, depending on which part of the world you are reading this.</div>
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What else is it called? <i>(leave a comment on that, won't you?)</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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There must be a more grown-up word for something a woman would wear.</div>
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It's for a lovely friend of mine whose creativity is a thing to behold.</div>
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She's an architect by trade and I'm not surprised her talents extend to fashion design as well.</div>
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That's how it is with creative people...they can do just about <i>anything</i> if they want to :)</div>
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<br /></div>
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I'm only just starting to think about the right fit to draft and if I should cut the black on the bias, to eliminate the need for waist darts...don't want to mar the lines.</div>
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<br /></div>
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The back of it repeats the same diagonal lines and V-dip 'neckline'.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Oh here are the cloths to use:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZI5lK8388xrS3T3GgbkTFeXMLDXfrtZWwtRNJeMdu_DblyAXTgduy_pxEGNYTu0IT855NJAZ47j_srJBXFSpMkPzZ-3MTLpC56qa-1NjBXYCwArwc6YL4O9RDIILw_r1XVMKXCKhjcEt/s1600/crepe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiZI5lK8388xrS3T3GgbkTFeXMLDXfrtZWwtRNJeMdu_DblyAXTgduy_pxEGNYTu0IT855NJAZ47j_srJBXFSpMkPzZ-3MTLpC56qa-1NjBXYCwArwc6YL4O9RDIILw_r1XVMKXCKhjcEt/s400/crepe.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Black and nude-coloured silk crepe....hurray (no really, I'm working on positive thinking *wink*).</div>
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The fabric will work great though with a body-skimming relaxed fit, bias cut.</div>
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Yes...it's the perfect fabric :)</div>
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----</div>
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<br /></div>
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Well, time to get back to work.</div>
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It's still only 12.30am 😏<br />
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Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-24143269003586982142016-11-13T22:17:00.001+08:002020-04-17T18:59:49.844+08:00Gratitude<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovtRFJhS6eW1TdUMUi6did5h2sFWMTWR7aWcuNKKtGUeMXBacnv4wd588zjHR28r0tQgAy2UxydyUcAxoxlI6jO2x2wcqb2g2j59rj9FToE10gtR8_u8a3Arbj5TBPiXyrUVaJbaUU-LG/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="910" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgovtRFJhS6eW1TdUMUi6did5h2sFWMTWR7aWcuNKKtGUeMXBacnv4wd588zjHR28r0tQgAy2UxydyUcAxoxlI6jO2x2wcqb2g2j59rj9FToE10gtR8_u8a3Arbj5TBPiXyrUVaJbaUU-LG/s320/the-little-things-of-life-enjoy-gratitude-motivation.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Yesterday, I completed a Chef's Jacket and Waiter's shirt for a client;<br />
samples for their remodelled cafe here in KL.<br />
I'd show you pictures, but I'm not sure I should.<br />
At least not until they've started using it in the cafe.<br />
<br />
I finished them in less time than anticipated<br />
And all because I was so happily absorbed in the work that it didn't feel like work.<br />
Not at all.<br />
When was the last time you felt that way about 'work'?<br />
Let's hope it wasn't too long ago.<br />
Unfortunately, for me, the last time I felt that way was really too long ago.<br />
But then, as I've explained before, I was in a funk for the past few months.<br />
<br />
Someone gave me another great tip last week.<br />
That's to write down 5 things I'm grateful for that day,<br />
and to do that just before going to bed so that we go to bed feeling positive.<br />
<br />
I've been doing that every night since.<br />
And I must say, it's brought a change to my morning mood.<br />
It didn't happen after the first night, though.<br />
It took about 6 nights.<br />
But then that's me.<br />
I was never a morning person;<br />
especially not when I have to wake up at 5.45am every day! Ha.<br />
<br />
In case you think this blog is appearing less and less about sewing,<br />
fear not.<br />
I've got ideas on the drawing board for a new collection of sewing patterns.<br />
And I'll put sneak peeks here from time to time.<br />
<br />
I'm even thinking of a tutorial or two.<br />
Mostly bite size servings of technical how to's.<br />
Like how to sew a seam with piping in the way.<br />
And how to sew a button (sounds too simple?<br />
Well, I realised most people sew them on in such a way that it causes the button placket to pucker when you wear the shirt, or dress, or any buttoned-up garment.)<br />
<br />
Before I go, here's something I'm grateful for today:<br />
The Rain!<br />
It cooled the house down considerably while I was cleaning it from top to bottom,<br />
music blasting in the background - Rock Hits from the 60s & 70s :D.<br />
Yes, I sang into the mop handle.<br />
And I had FUN!<br />
<br />Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-86195755262795225212016-11-04T23:25:00.001+08:002020-04-17T19:02:33.885+08:00Positively motivating<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBYL1GGfV3arMCKJ10WpsT12BE2oIVYQcop6bmla6ecM8-s-d1W4oQxqXEMBYT59xYRzIGU_Hm5-t_tocC6uq8Jchn_MVZI8Zfrr71sbj9dooM_-5duVb4P0IcSnBeXjVnB8UWckFermL/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="194" data-original-width="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIBYL1GGfV3arMCKJ10WpsT12BE2oIVYQcop6bmla6ecM8-s-d1W4oQxqXEMBYT59xYRzIGU_Hm5-t_tocC6uq8Jchn_MVZI8Zfrr71sbj9dooM_-5duVb4P0IcSnBeXjVnB8UWckFermL/" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The amazing thing about emitting positive energy, no matter how little of it, is that positive things start happening to you.<br />
It's almost as if it can't help itself :)<br />
<br />
I met a novelist on Wednesday who wanted me to test-read her manuscript.<br />
I was invited to an up-coming party.<br />
I unexpectedly got a sale on 2 of my RTW dresses from 2 seasons ago!<br />
It just keeps coming.<br />
It will for you too.<br />
Just keep those thoughts positive.<br />
<br />
AND I've been getting ideas on my next pattern to develop.<br />
After a hiatus spanning years.<br />
Actually, it will be a whole series of patterns, based on a theme, for both women and children.<br />
I can't wait to get started!<br />
First though, I've got orders to finish....happy problems.<br />
That doesn't stop me from sketching and jotting down notes and thoughts though :)<br />
Gotta keep the momentum going, you know?<br />
<br />
Today, I received a wonderful tip on how to keep the gloomies at bay.<br />
<br />
....do at least 2 things each day that make you happy;<br />
Sing in the shower, or while driving.<br />
Go and run outside with your kids.<br />
Sit in a cafe smelling the aroma of roasted coffee beans.<br />
Anything that makes you happy.<br />
<br />
For me, that's creating and making.<br />
Drafting, sketching, writing.<br />
...and singing off-key :)<br />
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What does it for you?<br />
What 2 things could you do to make happy for yourself?<br />
<br />
If sewing is your thing,<br />
<a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.my/p/children-patterns-for-sale.html" target="_blank">PDF patterns are still at $2 ;)</a><br />
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<br />Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-74335829436633007192016-10-30T16:14:00.003+08:002020-04-17T21:25:56.500+08:00New beginnings. PDF Patterns are at $2 now.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VXRH8D3sgw1waRVGm54_upF3vpof-j8eIftcL-HUZhTIJtOpSA91UnG3rspnTjIQ6MDRXhkeLZqFbrHoHu4BU2oXCCf-rmsp0aGOyChxq8Z4_-jaD_iF4hSUMY7AjicaLOn02XjAsZ-E/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3021" data-original-width="4191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VXRH8D3sgw1waRVGm54_upF3vpof-j8eIftcL-HUZhTIJtOpSA91UnG3rspnTjIQ6MDRXhkeLZqFbrHoHu4BU2oXCCf-rmsp0aGOyChxq8Z4_-jaD_iF4hSUMY7AjicaLOn02XjAsZ-E/s320/bundle+dresses+image.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Hello everyone :)<br />
<br />
It's been a monumental year for me.<br />
Upheavals and changes have marked most of 2015 and 2016.<br />
I was stuck for a long time in a rut of my own doing, which I realise now.<br />
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Through much soul-searching and self-confrontations (and lots of crying) in the past week, I feel a great new hope for the future.<br />
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My lovely friends,<br />
sometimes all it takes is a small nudge, sometimes a huge shove to get us back on track.<br />
Sometimes the push is painful, but the magic is within us to rise above the bleakness.<br />
We just have to be willing to see.<br />
To dig deep, root out the self imposed obstacles, and dump it for good.<br />
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It is hard to do, I know it.<br />
But it gets easier, the more you dig.<br />
It gets clearer, the more you heal.<br />
It gets more hopeful, the more you see.<br />
You feel more joy, the more hopeful you become.<br />
And with joy, comes love and gratitude.<br />
<br />
With love and gratitude,<br />
the creativity can flow, unhindered.<br />
Because you are just filled with good vibes :)<br />
Positive energy!<br />
<br />
To help you in your creative journey,<br />
and to show my gratitude to the Universe for my many blessings,<br />
my <a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.my/p/children-patterns-for-sale.html" target="_blank">PDF patterns</a> are now at $3for the indefinite future.<br />
<br />
I will add more pdf patterns to the library, in time.<br />
But for now, what I have are available for $3 each :)<br />
<br />
Go and create for joy and love.<br />
Let the light be our guide.<br />
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<br />Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-64603562383603845382012-12-31T02:15:00.000+08:002013-01-16T22:18:44.036+08:00Francisca & D - Latest collection now available onlineIt always seems like I hibernate from blogger land for too long while I'm focused on stuff elsewhere. Truth is, I find it harder and harder to multi-task as age creeps up on me. So now we are at the end of another year and I surface to find my blog looking at me with disgust for neglecting it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.franciscad.com/4033.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKL8SQhoXnge1XaD2dujkrAVDlzzWS3i5aS8nvqweZBYjDJCUR7JuEACjhsgKUC_iVUs3ypYc7zctlfx80U5wcKPRbW82sOBYKy57Rc_sh6bO54Khw3vTny2fi2CATGudXwsA78i9bXpNy/s640/IMG_0121.JPG" width="425" /></a></div>
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So lets update it with something significant. Our <a href="http://www.franciscad.com/" target="_blank">new collection</a> is out. It has no name, on purpose. Cos if you like it, we will keep it alive for eternity. Or at least till they no longer manufacture the fabric. And then we will probably keep the style but change the fabric. It depends, I guess, on a variety of factors. But I never understood how anything goes 'out of style' if there is a constant demand for it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.franciscad.com/4032.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3hvuacpR2xNrTvdSxUain_7HE2EEWwMOjzrqe_aukK8ZJPq97E3zjQF4rC8qJdNdlhnt7SLGhfcYTyoBdgcLnSapeVPoRsObMEr9fadBn2SzS69eFiP_kDp6zmpJP_98QWl5cnkjIGGzt/s640/_MG_0311.jpg" width="416" /></a></div>
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I learnt a lot in producing this line of clothing. Mostly from <a href="http://fashion-incubator.com/products_services/" target="_blank">this book</a>. It really is invaluable if you have plans to manufacture your own sewn goods. Go subscribe to the blog too. Ms Fasanella is a well of useful information and very generous with dispensing it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.franciscad.com/4030.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVM-B1YZJmzG767m6cOyAZ0H4Kit89wEA2Is66plxOG5R2zOrGdeI_m4_kzNnL5-lXbMCmDpk-9qkb406L5CTZBP2O49snnUmkVND6Q7CojPAsBYxmEcK95nUBNonOq3ebcTXUMTvyRQzT/s640/IMG_0234.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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I'm proud of this collection. All the clothes are produced in-house and manufactured in as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_manufacturing" target="_blank">lean</a> a way as I can manage it. I'm also proud of the fact that I wrote the website myself and figured out all the tech stuff with a bit of trial and error and with cogent help from the support people of Webfaction, our host. It was no mean feat, for a middle-aged, untrained, near/far-sighted stick-in-the-mud to accomplish. Very satisfying.<br />
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<a href="http://www.franciscad.com/4031.html" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_UyIc57MS0LSuI0ziA4XGDyKthm_RL0iJM4FKhu92JZpr_aoy8_FSpUkX9_L_LLRDBpTLSLw0a_A6r4lMUMiNZX1RPftaJZT-xS8TgmjqZSFaz82e5T0c5dEXlzkXVv2-oLnY0mbXBHm/s640/_MG_0474.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Merry Christmas, all, and have a Happy New Year!Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-83158109715058185802012-03-06T12:17:00.001+08:002012-03-30T08:10:43.018+08:00Patterns and Pattern-making<div style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Sale on paper patterns ends today, March 30 2012. Get yours in by midnight GMT, or a couple of hours after, and as long as the check-out registers the discount, your order will still be processed :)</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Did you know that my PDF patterns are now available in print? As in, like the traditionally packaged paper patterns that you might buy from Butterick or Vogue.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcULvMEjG2snL39bYBy9vh79PHxvSM6Hjp4c2crjPe-0L00CcuG7rxTaI_E_dMWSRboJhQQ4o1sSENdsoHQfOvOyBiF9TFEJ7I73QfTzjNU1COORT_LZV0dH7kwwWsWxTmSst-j8wz4_n/s1600/MARILYN'S+LBD_complete+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcULvMEjG2snL39bYBy9vh79PHxvSM6Hjp4c2crjPe-0L00CcuG7rxTaI_E_dMWSRboJhQQ4o1sSENdsoHQfOvOyBiF9TFEJ7I73QfTzjNU1COORT_LZV0dH7kwwWsWxTmSst-j8wz4_n/s320/MARILYN'S+LBD_complete+cropped.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Actually, mine aren't all that traditional. For one, the patterns proper are printed on sturdy white paper, not on thin tear-able tissue (<i><b>that's</b></i> traditional). And B, the instructions are printed in booklet form, not on a large sheet of newsprint that you have to turn this way and that, and flip up and down, to read.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJ8k7aUV7drd6ICwOZm5JxCR_eYL0KWmFnRJSLytBtqhfOQ6XbBQhmkoRKTxB00lbxuMadSSYLZMS5wX8j-qQU3uYefXJWnvTb2lg9q8GGDoG-z11jUVfqI_ZsT0OW-61EOvTDveO2ar1/s1600/Felicity's+Formal+Frock_all+sizes_marked_A0+black+cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYJ8k7aUV7drd6ICwOZm5JxCR_eYL0KWmFnRJSLytBtqhfOQ6XbBQhmkoRKTxB00lbxuMadSSYLZMS5wX8j-qQU3uYefXJWnvTb2lg9q8GGDoG-z11jUVfqI_ZsT0OW-61EOvTDveO2ar1/s320/Felicity's+Formal+Frock_all+sizes_marked_A0+black+cropped.jpg" width="317" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">And in celebration of moving my operations back <a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/2012/02/well-hello.html" target="_blank">home</a>. I am having a half-off sale of the paper patterns for a limited time only! If you'd like to see what that looks like, please follow the pattern links on the tab bar or on the side bar. Well, let's just make it easier for you...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/p/womens-patterns.html" target="_blank">Marilyn's LBD</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/p/childrens-patterns.html" target="_blank">Felicity's Formal Frock</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/2009/07/little-chi-pao-pdf-sewing-pattern.html" target="_blank">Little Chi Pao</a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The discount will be taken at checkout <b>AND</b> if you order more than one pattern, you get to enjoy combined shipping rates! - that is sometimes tempting, isn't it?. I ship internationally but please enquire for rates if your destination country is not listed.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSZR37LDnAhtFkXBxuLGCt9m5pmXAn7ADV-AB9mAp4qhbbWRMkuro_n0DKqM970c8CNE7DUNHUi2Upeus6IO_T19e33r5wpoWaq_n_LnmW4sz5Csct908YTD49joW_sklf5STvSJKUdSsI/s1600/Little+Chi+Pao_all+sizes+A0_cropped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSZR37LDnAhtFkXBxuLGCt9m5pmXAn7ADV-AB9mAp4qhbbWRMkuro_n0DKqM970c8CNE7DUNHUi2Upeus6IO_T19e33r5wpoWaq_n_LnmW4sz5Csct908YTD49joW_sklf5STvSJKUdSsI/s320/Little+Chi+Pao_all+sizes+A0_cropped.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">I've discovered that I really enjoy pattern-making a whole lot more than sewing. There's something very satisfying behind the whole geometry of drafting. The parts simply MUST fit the whole and when it comes together perfectly (or with minimal tweaking), it's like getting an "A+", or an "Excellent" on an essay or assignment you swotted at.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">And if you haven't already noticed, I am advertising my services for <a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/p/pattern-making-service.html" target="_blank">pattern-making</a> (sheesh - saw <b>that</b> one coming!). So, if you'd like a pattern custom-made for your personal use, or for commercial/manufacturing purposes, you might want to drop me a line or two :) My rates (flat, not hourly) and I are very reasonable to work with.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;">Cheers!</span></span><br />
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<br />Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4024556417962398476.post-42836677739728457622012-02-29T23:54:00.000+08:002012-03-01T09:43:46.604+08:00Drafting Part XIII - Using Slopers With Commercial Patterns<div style="font-family: inherit;">
<span style="font-size: small;">This post is long overdue. If you remember the <a href="http://www.ikatbag.com/2010/11/drafting-epilogue.html" target="_blank">Drafting Series</a> I did with LiEr from <a href="http://www.ikatbag.com/" target="_blank">Ikat Bag</a>, this <a href="http://www.ikatbag.com/2010/10/drafting-part-xiii-using-slopers-with.html" target="_blank">article</a> was the last of the series that I did and I always meant to re-post it here...but <a href="http://mymeasuringtape.blogspot.com/2012/02/well-hello.html" target="_blank">things got the better of me</a>...</span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">So here it is in its entirety. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Now that you have a ready and wearable sloper / bodice block, you can adapt it to make any style of dresses, blouses and skirts, limited only by your imagination. If that task seem daunting to you, then use it to make commercial patterns fit your child as though you've drafted it yourself. Hey you took the time and effort to create a good-fit sloper, so you may as well make the MOST of it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">For the sake of clarity, all slopers are shown in RED in this post.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Getting Started</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">The first thing to do after purchasing your commercial pattern is to look at the back of the envelope or packet and study the sizing given there. If the pattern is for a dress in 2 pieces (ie. a bodice attached to a skirt) where the bodice stops at the chest level, then choose the size that is closest to the CHEST measurement of your child (not the sloper). This could be a little bit more or a little bit less than your child's actual chest measurement. If the bodice stops at waist level, then choose the size that closest to the WAIST measurement of your child. Then take note of the given age defined for that size (2T, 3T, etc). Please ignore the possibility that the defined age is not the same as your child's real age.</span></div>
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For this post, I am going to choose size 2 by way of example.<br />
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Next, look for the FINISHED measurements given for that size and note the differences between finished measurements and age-given measurements. In the example below, only the chest measurement will be used for horizontal fit.<br />
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finished measurement - sized measurement = ease (style and/or fit)<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">22 - 21 = 1</span></div>
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Write these numbers down somewhere on the back of the envelope so you will always have it on hand. The difference is the amount of ease built into the pattern. If you have included ease into your sloper (chest, waist, hip), take that much away from the ease calculated for the pattern.<br />
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<span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span>pattern ease - ease included in your sloper<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">= amount of ease to add back into the pattern after adjusting</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">1 - 0.5 = 0.5</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"></span>You must also know how much seam allowance has been added and built into the pattern. This amount is sometimes given on the back of the pattern envelope. If not, you will have to measure the pattern itself across the chest or waist and get the difference between what you've measured and the finished measurement. The difference is the seam allowance built into the pattern.</div>
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Seam allowance = 5/8" (22 5/8" - 22")<br />
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To simplify matters for you later, draw in the sewing line based on the SA determined. Sometimes the sewing line is clearly marked out on the commercial pattern. In this case, there is no need to figure out the seam allowance in the pattern.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Adjusting the Commercial Pattern</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Take the commercial pattern out of the envelope and spread out all the sheets available. Look for the required size (as determined previously) and put a mark somewhere on that size pattern so you don't make a mistake later and work with the wrong one. Do this for all the required pieces.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Next, look for the printed markings where the chest, waist, hip ought to be. Depending on the design of the garment, these markings may not always be marked. A-line, tent-type dresses tend not to have these markings. I will come back to that later and explain how to adjust accordingly. Determined the seam allowance in the commercial pattern as explained above.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Dresses</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">I define a dress as a garment that is made up from 2 pieces - the upper torso and the skirt portion. So the following instructions work for a separate blouse and skirt pattern as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Upper torso - Place your sloper on the pattern matching the chest line, or waist line (this is dependent on the design of the dress). Trace out your sloper onto the pattern itself. Take the sloper away after tracing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">From the traced chest line (or waist line if you've used that) add in the amount of ease given for the chest (or waist) minus the ease from your own sloper (0.5" in the worked example above) and marked with a point on the pattern. I will call this point (A) for reference later.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">To adjust the depth of scye (armhole height), on the commercial pattern, draw a line from the base of the armscye perpendicular to the centre back line. Then adjust the pattern in the following way:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">to lengthen - cut the pattern along this line. Place a piece of paper under the cut. Spread the upper portion of the cut pattern until it matches the base of the armscye of the sloper. You will need to place your sloper over the pattern again to match this point. Once you are satisfied, tape the cut pieces onto the paper underneath. Redraw the scye smoothly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">to shorten - crease the pattern along the drawn line and make a pleat according to the amount to decrease. Place the sloper over to check. Tape the pleat own and redraw the scye smoothly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Now that the depth of scye has been adjusted, draw a line to connect point A to the base of the redrawn armscye.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">You are done with the upper torso.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Skirt - the skirt portion of the skirt will start from either the chest or waist line (design dependent). You would have adjusted the pattern at the upper torso according to either one already as explained previously. Adjust the waist (chest) of the skirt like so:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">A-line / gathered / pleated skirt - on the upper torso piece, measure from point A to the original chest/waist point of the pattern. Let this amount be <span style="font-style: italic;">X</span>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">You must either add to or substract <span style="font-style: italic;">X</span> from the chest/waist line of the skirt piece. You add if you had to increase the chest/waist line in the upper torso. Subtract if you had to decrease the chest/waist line in the upper torso.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Redraw the side seam.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">You are done with the skirt portion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Sleeve - because sleeves can vary in style, I will only explain how to adjust the depth of scye of the sleeve, which in most cases is sufficient to ensure a nice-fitting sleeve.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">On the commercial pattern, draw a line to join the 2 points marking the base of the armscye.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Place your sleeve sloper over the sleeve pattern, matching at the centre line at the top of the cap. Please make sure also that they are aligned vertically as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">If your sloper sleeve has a longer depth of scye than the pattern sleeve, remove the sloper pattern. Then slash and spread the pattern sleeve until the depth of scye is the same as that on the sloper.</span></div>
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You are basically doing the same thing as if you were lengthening for the depth of scye at the upper torso (explained above). Tape down the slashed pattern and redraw the cap at the underarm (red lines).<br />
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If the sloper sleeve has a shorter depth of scye than the pattern sleeve, mark on the pattern paper the 2 points of your sloper base of scye. Remove your sloper. Draw a line to join the 2 marked points.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Then crease and fold over along the green line to shorten the depth of scye until it matches the points marked previously.</span></div>
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Redraw the side seams.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">You are done with the sleeve.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sheaths</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">I define a sheath as a one-piece dress. To adjust a sheath pattern, do as you would for the upper torso of a two-piece dress. However, if it is an A-line dress, there very likely WILL NOT be any marked chest or waist lines. In this case, adjust the pattern for depth of scye only (same method as for adjusting depth of scye on upper torso, described above).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Other Areas to Consider</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Shoulder slope - some shoulders are slopier or blockier than the 'standard' (whatever that is). Place your sloper over the pattern, matching at the shoulder points*. Make sure the pattern is aligned vertically as well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">If there is a significant difference between the slope on your sloper and that of the commercial pattern, then trace your shoulder slope onto the pattern paper. Smooth out the neckline if necessary.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">If the difference is negligible, then don't bother adjusting, really.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-style: italic;">*remember that on a sleeveless pattern, the shoulder point should sit higher on the shoulder line. For a sleeveless pattern, mark a point about 3/8" (1 cm) in from the original point. Use this new point as the reference when adjusting the shoulder slope.</span></span></div>
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Neckline - your sloper might have a wider / lower neckline than the one on the pattern. To adjust the neckline, place your sloper onto the pattern , matching along the centre line and the shoulder point as much as possible. Trace the sloper neckline onto the pattern paper. Redraw the pattern neckline to match the shoulder point at the base of the neck.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">The neck depth should be adjusted only if the pattern has a jewel (round) neckline like that on your sloper. Keep to your own neck depth.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">Sheath / Skirt length - this is a no brainer, really. Just lengthen or shorten at the hem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Design Elements to Consider</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">If there are gathers, pleating, smocking on the upper torso, I can only advise you to adjust for fit at the depth of scye and then make a mock up to see where else you have to alter. In some cases, finished measurements are given on the envelope back so you have a reference to work with. If so, then adjust chest/waist line of the upper torso by the amount that differs from your child's actual chest/waist measurement and that given for the chosen size. This method will also work for a skirt pattern with pleats/gathers/smocking at the waist.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Last Words</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;">All the adjustments taken above are required for both Front and Back pieces. Adjustments are not necessary for embellishments like sashes, lace trims, binding, because you will only need to increase the amount required by only a little bit. Fabric yardage can remain the same as well because the pattern writers tend to state more than is usually required.</span></div>
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<br /></div>Daljeethttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06065181995721482551noreply@blogger.com5